Description of the clutch design (VAZ-2104 “Zhiguli” 1984-2012)

Causes of VAZ 2107 clutch failure

Driven and driven discs are subject to the greatest wear.

Clutch failure can be caused by the following reasons:

wear, oiling, defects on the surface of friction linings;
too large gaps or lack thereof in the clutch release drive;
air entering the hydraulic drive system;
fluid leakage from the master cylinder and hydraulic drive system;
loosening rivets;
disc deformation;
jamming, wear of the driven disk hub splines, clutch drive mechanism;
bearing wear;
malfunction of the driven disc damper springs;
breakdown of the release fork or its release spring;
wear of the sealing rings, which impairs the seal.

To eliminate these problems, in each individual case you need to change worn parts; it is better to replace the clutch system assembly.

Visual inspection of the disk

Clutch kit price

Now, in the era of the development of the Internet, there is no need to run to stores and look for the necessary spare part. It is enough to have access to the World Wide Web and you will have any detail in a couple of clicks. Prices for clutch discs for the VAZ-2107 vary from 470 to 2000 rubles. The cost of replacement work in Moscow and the Moscow region is 2–2.5 thousand rubles.

What advice can you give when choosing a disk? First, rummage through the forums and read reviews. Secondly, when purchasing a disc, do not be lazy to inspect it. Examine the splines especially carefully - there should be no nicks or burrs there, otherwise there is a risk that the disk simply will not fit on the shaft or will not be removed during the next replacement.

Take a look at the friction linings: they should all be uniform in composition and free of cracks. Another point is the quality of the riveting. The key to quality here is the identical dimensions of the flange. Try to swing the damper springs; if there is play, then you should refuse the purchase

And the last thing worth paying attention to is the presence of markings on the damper plate

Types of replacement and their cost

Based on the design of the unit, individual components may fail, or the clutch may become unusable as a whole. From this we can come to the conclusion that the replacement can be complete or partial. Of course, the cost of replacement will depend on this. There are 2 completely separate points - the price of spare parts, and the price of work to replace them. The first point is more varied.

The car owner on the manufacturer market has the following options:

VazInterService (2100-2500 rubles).
LUK (2800-3100 rub.).
KraftTech (2500-2700 rub.).
Valeo (2900-3400 rub.).
Sachs (2600-3000 rub.).

Replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch. Performance check (Video)

VAZ 2107 clutch failures

The hydraulic clutch drive loses its functionality for the following reasons:

The clutch itself can break for the following reasons:

Signs of a broken clutch

it is difficult or impossible to switch the gearbox with the car running;
crackling and noise in the gearbox when changing gears;
the clutch “drives” - the car moves when the speed is turned on, even if the clutch pedal is fully depressed;
the clutch slips - when you press the gas, especially at 4-5 speeds when driving uphill, the engine speed increases without increasing the vehicle speed;
jerking and vibration when the clutch operates;
noise when releasing the clutch pedal.

However, before removing the gearbox and disassembling the clutch assembly, you should make sure that this is where the reason lies. You should start by adjusting the clutch, checking for brake fluid leaks from the working and master cylinders and visually checking the functionality of the hydraulic drive.

How to change the clutch of a VAZ 2107

The procedure is as follows:

Note: The VAZ 2107 gearbox weighs about 26 kg, so it is better to remove it together with a partner.

Wear of the basket on the inside and wear of the disk are determined by compliance with the geometric dimensions specified in the instruction manual. If the antennae of the box break, they can be re-riveted rather than changing the basket.

Oil contamination can also cause jerking and vibration when the clutch is engaged. They can also occur when the splines are worn out, the damper spring or driven disk is bent. In this case, only replacing the faulty part will help.

Sometimes it can be difficult to get the gearbox shaft into the splines on the clutch disc. This happens if the clutch disc is installed offset relative to the axis of symmetry. In this case, it is unacceptable to use force to “push” the gearbox shaft.

Now you know how to change the clutch of a VAZ 2107 and can carry out the repair yourself.

The easiest way to remove the gearbox

VAZ 2106

On a classic VAZ, the clutch can fail for various reasons, and the problem may not necessarily be in the basket or disc; often the cause of failure is the clutch of the slave or master cylinder (MCC). Signs of a faulty GCC:

This is not the first time the clutch appears; you have to press the pedal several times;

clap pedal.

VAZ 2109

On front-wheel drive VAZ 2108-09 cars, the clutch changes in approximately the same way as on a VAZ classic, with the only difference being the removal and installation of the transmission. on the “nine” there is no driveshaft, and you will have to remove the wheel drives (CV joints). There is also a difference. The VAZ 2109 has a cable drive (all “classics” have a hydraulic drive). Replacing the VAZ 2109 clutch is a little more complicated than the 2101-07 model, and therefore the work takes more time.

Replacing the clutch disc on a VAZ-2104-2107

Clutch kit The clutch is the most important component of a car, without which it is impossible to imagine the operation of the gearbox mechanism, as well as the car’s performance of such operations as starting and braking to a final stop. In other words, the clutch is a necessary mechanism of any car, which is a kind of transfer point between the engine and the drive axles.

This unit includes:

driven clutch disc;
clutch basket and release bearing with clutch.

So what is this component of the clutch mechanism? This is a disc with spring plates and friction linings that are not connected to each other and are made of a material comparable to the material of the brake pads, i.e. abrasion resistant. In the center of the disk there is a hub with a splined connection.

Clutch device

Replacement

So, having purchased a new clutch disc, we proceed to install it. In order to slightly reduce the labor intensity, we will perform the replacement without removing the box. We carry out the work on an overpass or inspection pit.

Getting started with labor feats, we will carry out the preparatory stage:

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
Remove the clutch slave cylinder.
We unhook the cardan from the gearbox.

Unscrew the speedometer cable.
Disconnect the wires of the reversing lights from the contact group on the gearbox.
We disconnect the clutch housing from the cylinder block and the cross member of the rear engine mount from the body.

Now we move directly to the main stage of our work - replacing the clutch disc:

We unscrew the nuts securing the gearbox support, move it back so that the gearshift lever rests against the back of the floor hole. The front part of the box will be held by the muffler, and a reliable support must be placed under the rear part.

Holding the flywheel with a mounting tool, unscrew the clutch housing mounting bolts, turning the crankshaft to gain access to them.
We move the clutch basket and remove the used driven disc, replacing it with a new one. Before installation, wipe the new disk and flywheel with a rag soaked in gasoline.

The installed disk must be adjusted relative to the center of the bearing at the end of the crankshaft.

We carry out further assembly in the reverse order, not forgetting to adjust the free play of the clutch pedal afterwards.

We repair it ourselves (VAZ classic)

We replace the DS and KS on a rear-wheel drive VAZ as follows:

put the car on a lift or pit;

turn off the engine, put the car in neutral;

remove the gear shift lever cover (unscrew the screws);

remove only the upper part of the gear shift lever, there is no need to remove it completely (disconnect at the location indicated by the arrow in the figure);

unscrew the bolts of the power take-off shaft, dismantle the shaft itself (make marks on the power take-off shaft and the rear axle gearbox. This is necessary to fix the shaft at the same marks during installation to avoid unnecessary vibrations);

disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox, as well as the RCS;

disconnect all the gearbox fastenings (including the traverse), remove the gearbox;

unscrew the six bolts securing the basket, remove the parts;

put new parts in place, put everything back.

When installing new parts, the disk must be centered, otherwise the manual transmission will not lock. A factory mandrel or an old “first-born” from a “classic” transmission is used as a center.

Clutch mechanism of VAZ 2107

The VAZ 2107 clutch is a rather complex mechanism consisting of several dozen elements. The reasons for its malfunction can be very different. However, they can all be divided into two groups:

Defects in the clutch mechanism itself. These include malfunctions of the driven part of the clutch, pressure device, basket, flywheel, and clutch fork.
Defects in the hydraulic drive of the clutch mechanism. They can be caused by leakage of the working fluid, the formation of an air lock in it, as well as malfunctions of the main or working cylinders (MCC and RCC) and the pedal mechanism.

The clutch, like any other car part, has a limited service life. First of all, it depends on the skill of the driver, and therefore is not regulated by the manufacturer. To increase the service life of the clutch, it is necessary to adjust it in time, monitor the level of working fluid, avoid off-road driving, and learn the skills of using the clutch correctly.

Classic VAZ models have a dry, permanently closed single-plate clutch. It includes two main elements:

Leading part. It consists of a driven disk, the splined part of which transmits rotation to the gearbox due to friction between the friction linings and the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate.
Non-removable drive unit (basket). The basket is attached to the flywheel and consists of a pressure plate and a diaphragm pressure spring.

Classic VAZ models use a single-disc dry, permanently closed clutch: 1 - flywheel;
2 — clutch driven disc; 3 — clutch basket; 4 — release bearing with clutch; 5 — hydraulic clutch reservoir; 6 - hose; 7 — master cylinder of the hydraulic clutch release; 8 — servo spring of the clutch pedal; 9 — clutch pedal return spring; 10 — clutch pedal travel limit screw; 11 — clutch pedal; 12 — hydraulic clutch release pipeline; 13 — ball joint fork; 14 — clutch release fork; 15 — release spring for clutch release fork; 16 — hose; 17 — working cylinder of the hydraulic clutch release; 18 — clutch bleeder fitting The clutch mechanism must be reliable, durable, and capable of damping fluctuations in engine torque. The clutch has a hydraulic drive consisting of:

clutch master cylinder;
clutch slave cylinder;
clutch on/off forks;
release bearing;
foot pedal.

Malfunctions

As a result of vehicle operation, the clutch disc, like any consumable material, can become unusable - the springs weaken, the friction linings wear out and become thinner. Manufacturers do not indicate a specific service life of the disk, because it depends only on the driver: one “clutch” can last only 5,000 km, while another can last 100,000. Increased clutch wear can result from:

sudden starting at high speeds;
slip;
incorrect adjustment;
participation in racing events;
leakage of foreign liquids.

Usually there are two faults for which it is worth considering repairs:

the clutch “slips”;
the clutch “drives”.

When slipping, the driven disk is not pressed completely against the flywheel. What does this mean? If you sharply press the gas pedal while the car is moving, you may notice an increase in engine speed, but there will be no increase in speed. In the end, the car will someday just stand up and only towing or muscle power can set it in motion. Therefore, the issue of replacing the driven disk should not be shelved.

When the clutch “drives”, uncharacteristic sounds and noises are observed when changing gears, gears are difficult to engage. In this case, the driven disk, on the contrary, does not completely “separate” from the flywheel. In this case, pumping the hydraulics and adjusting the free play of the clutch helps, which can be easily done by anyone in a garage. If you ignore this malfunction, you can run into expensive gearbox repairs.

Order of Operations

For ease of operation, the machine must be placed on a lift, on an inspection hole or on an overpass. If such equipment is not available, you need to jack up the car. To be on the safe side, two. Don't forget about safety and lock the wheels, you can use the hand brake.

On a note! Experts recommend that amateurs take photographs of each stage so that the assembly process after replacing the unit is adequate.

Next, we perform the following steps sequentially:

We de-energize the car by disconnecting the batteries with the minus terminals. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox, disconnect the clutch cable, and turn off the drive. Experts believe that it is necessary to dismantle the gearbox; this will make it easier to change oil seals, repair the crankcase, and replace the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder. The gearbox has significant weight, and you will need an assistant to remove it. You need to loosen the starter fasteners; to do this, remove the air filter housing and the starter nuts. In the cabin, we completely free access to the gearshift knob, disconnect the knob from the gearbox, to do this you need to pry it off and remove the bushing.

Subsequent work is carried out under the machine. It is necessary to dismantle the driveshaft, exhaust pipe, all electrical wires and the cylinder. We remove the starter, dismantle or move the gearbox. You need to drain the working fluid from the box, you can take the opportunity to change it. We remove the motor support and flywheel, dismantle the clutch using a mandrel. It is advisable to inspect the flywheel for defects and replace it if necessary. We dismantle the clutch basket and disc. We remove the bearing and clean the working shaft of dirt. We install the bearing with the coupling on the clean shaft. If necessary, replace the bearing.

If a leak is detected, repair of the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder is required, mainly it consists of replacing the rubber seals. This is a very complex job that requires skills and experience.

Important! When replacing the seals of the working and master cylinders, the brake fluid must be drained, and when performing work, it is not advisable to touch the cone nut, otherwise adjustment will be required.

We install the basket on the flywheel and perform assembly in the reverse order. We carry out the adjustment after replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch with an injector. This model has a special protective cover

In the frontal projection it is fastened with bolts, in the aft projection - with screws. The casing must be dismantled and the length of free movement of the pedal must be checked; it must be at least 1 mm and no more than 3 mm. You need to adjust the size using a lock nut. After realizing the required dimensions, the protective casing is installed in place. Please note! It is important to carry out the actions very carefully so that the pusher does not change its position relative to the GVC.

Watch the VAZ 2107 clutch repair yourself in the video:

Other tips

I changed the clutch disc, the gears are tight, what could it be? 1.2. I try to turn it on, the lever works, the backrest does not turn on, but if with force, then at high speed.

What about grass? There's plenty of room here for beginners, the biggest problem is removing that second field

VAZ 2112

The difference between VAZ 2112 and VAZ 2110 cars is the same as between 2115 and 2114:

It follows that replacing the VAZ 2112 clutch is carried out according to the same principle as on the 2110 model. From the above, we can conclude that on all front-wheel drive vehicles of the VAZ 2108-15 family, the replacement work is practically the same. the same, the difference is only in the details.

Replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch

The main disadvantage of the clutch is that this mechanism does not have a specific service life. That is, its condition depends only on the driver and driving style. No manufacturer gives any guarantees or exact deadlines after which it needs to be replaced. Experienced technicians recommend diagnosing this mechanism every 80,000 km. Statistics show that the most vulnerable parts are the slave and master disks. The most common defects in the driven disk may be mechanical deformations, breakage of damper springs, wear or damage to hub splines, and abrasion of friction linings. Most of the breakdowns described above cannot be repaired. In these cases, as a rule, the VAZ-2107 clutch disc assembly is replaced.

Signs of a broken clutch

Disk diagnostics can be performed in two ways. The first involves the presence of a special device with which you can measure the thickness of the part. To do this, you will need lifts and a gauge that is attached to the mechanism being measured. Read the instructions for how to use the tool.

The second method is “folk” and should not be abused, as it reduces the service life of the part. Put it in the last gear and start the engine. Press the gas on the clutch; if the engine does not stall, the disc needs to be replaced.

Replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch (video)

Since we chose the second replacement method, dismantling the gearbox will be the initial step. The car must be placed above the inspection hole. A lift or overpass is also suitable. First you need to disconnect the cardan from the elastic coupling. It can also be removed completely if it is in the way. To dismantle the cardan, you need to bend the clamps located on the seal ring, after which it can be easily pulled out. Then you need to remove the clutch drive. Disconnect the springs and unscrew the bolts.

Setting the mark

The next stage is no less important and should not be neglected. The marks are placed to avoid vibration that may occur when installing a new part. This is due to the fact that during operation the factory balancing loses its meaning and the marks are the only way to install the basket in its place. Factory parts do not provide special marks, since their installation is carried out with high precision. To apply the notch, you can use a thin chisel or use regular chalk.

After completing all the above operations, you can begin dismantling the basket. First you need to unscrew the six bolts located around the mechanism; they secure the disk to the flywheel. To prevent the part from turning, hold it with your hand; the whole procedure will take at most 5 minutes. If you do not have enough strength to hold the basket, you can fix it with a large screwdriver. After all the bolts have been unscrewed, you need to remove the part. Gently pull it, holding it with both hands. It is worth knowing that the disk is not fixed at this moment; it must be held, otherwise it may fall to the floor. Inspect the disk carefully; if it is in good enough condition, it can be repaired.

VipWash.ru

Which clutch is better to choose for a VAZ 2107-2101

There are many samples of various auto parts manufacturers on the market. In some cases, the seats for the main system may differ, because for the VAZ model, when replacing the VAZ 2105 clutch, units from other classic models of domestic manufacturers are suitable. In addition, the manufacturer continues to produce spare parts.

However, in addition to various replacement models, there are also a large number of counterfeit products on the market, which in their geometric parameters correspond to original spare parts, but their technical characteristics do not stand up to criticism.

The most reliable purchase option. products of the manufacturer AvtoVAZ, which can be easily checked on information resources by serial and serial number. Such products are the least counterfeit; at a higher cost compared to competitors, the likelihood of running into a fake is less. Also, official suppliers of components for the plant itself have a reputation for reliable units, because for some models, from VAZ 2101 to VAZ 2103, the plant stopped producing spare parts, transferring this function to contractors.

When carrying out repair work on the clutch assembly, these components can also be checked on the VAZ 2107 for identification numbers, which makes the purchase safer. With proper care and a calm driving style, original spare parts are quite capable of overcoming the threshold of 100 thousand kilometers or more than 5 years of operation without any repairs.

In addition, simple rules for purchasing both the entire system and its individual parts:

absence of roughness on metal surfaces;
lack of rough finishing with large technological gaps, which in the future can lead to breakage of the part;
absence of foreign inclusions of liquids, oils and their stains;
absence of play in some parts of the system, and if you purchase a complete set, all parts must fit tightly together.

READ When to Change Timing Belt on Ford Fusion

Official manufacturers also, in addition to high-quality assembly, have various marks in the form of embossing or stamping of the batch, company logo or other identification marks.

In addition to domestic suppliers, classic models are suitable for products of some foreign manufacturers, for example, Luk or Valeo. Such products are also very popular, despite their high cost. However, at a high price, the service life of these units is incomparably higher, and the likelihood of technological defects is much lower compared to domestic competitors. At the same time, foreign units are also very popular with unscrupulous manufacturers, so the choice of such products must be approached very carefully.