Where are the drain holes and how to clean them

July 10, 2017 Lada.Online 64 406 5

To extend the life of the car body, you need to regularly monitor the condition of the drainage holes, otherwise rust may appear in the internal cavities. Also, do not forget to lubricate the rubbing parts of the body. Let's consider the features of such a service.

For LADA cars (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina, Priora, Lada 4×4) there are no fundamental differences in cleaning the drainage holes and lubrication of body fittings.

Why is excess moisture dangerous?

High soil moisture is a scourge that can spoil a lot of blood for a home owner. We will analyze all the inconveniences associated with high groundwater levels.

Increased humidity in the area leads to uneven freezing of the soil under and around the house.

If this is not particularly critical for a foundation on piles, then for a shallow strip foundation and an insulated slab there is a considerable risk: the higher the soil moisture, the more susceptible it is to frost heaving. The moisture in the soil under the walls of the house freezes and tries to push the foundation upward, while under the house itself there is no such load. The foundation simply breaks - often along with the walls. The same fate can await paths made of paving slabs.

Photo 1. Consequences of frost heaving.

High humidity is the cause of the appearance of fungus and mold on walls and ceilings.

Such a neighborhood is extremely dangerous for the health of the residents, and doubly dangerous for the child’s body; Moreover, diseases caused by harmful flora will appear before you discover unwanted neighbors. In addition to harm to health, a fungus that has settled in a frame wall can lead to the most dire consequences - up to and including the need to demolish the house

In an area with high soil moisture, farming will be impossible.

If the roots of cultivated plants are constantly in water, they simply rot.

Increased soil moisture under a garage or outbuildings will lead to property damage.

Things will rot, and the car body is more susceptible to corrosion.
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Cracks in the foundation and supporting structures, fungus on walls and ceilings, rotting plants in beds and accelerated corrosion of a car in the garage - this is an incomplete list of the consequences of increased soil moisture.

What cannot be used as drainage?

When carrying out preparatory work for rooting a seedling, many gardeners make a number of mistakes. First of all, a common problem for the further growth of shrubs is incorrectly selected drainage, which is prohibited from being used for interlayering as soil drainage:

Sand - not only does it not drain water from the soil, but on the contrary, it retains, saturates and further creates conditions for the proliferation of fungal infections.
Nut shells, tea leaves, tree bark or egg shells are products of natural origin. They may contain pathogenic microorganisms that provoke the formation of pathogenic bacteria and also attract harmful insects.
Marble and granite chips - this material tends to undergo a chemical reaction, which leads to a change in the acid-base balance of the soil. Subsequently, if the optimal pH level is violated, there is a possibility of slower growth or complete loss of the seedling. When removing excess moisture, be sure to remove it from the pan. Prolonged stagnation of nutrient fluid will attract pests, which will negatively affect the plant.

Thus, before planting a plant, you should familiarize yourself not only with the principles of rooting a pet, but also carefully study the purpose of drainage and its possible types. In addition, it is recommended to make appropriate holes at the bottom of the flowerpot, optimally suited for the seedling to be planted.

More information can be found in the video:

When does a site need drainage?

A drainage system that will drain the area will help to avoid these problems. It is not difficult to determine that there is a need for it: there are reliable signs.

If after rain there are puddles on the site that do not dry up for a long time.
If garden plants die for no particular reason.
Mold and mildew appear in the basement.
If the ground on the site is wet even in dry weather.
If among the weeds, moisture-loving ones (cattail, nettle) predominate.
If there is a pond or swamp on or near your site.

This suggests that groundwater is located no deeper than one and a half meters, which means that a drainage system is an urgent need.

Useful tips

To prevent an increase in humidity in the refrigerator and reduce the number of times you clean the refrigerator drainage system, adhere to the following rules when operating the household appliance:

regularly carry out the procedure for washing internal surfaces, which will prevent the accumulation of debris in the chambers;
place products on the shelves of the unit at a short distance from the walls of the compartments so that packaging material and products do not touch them and do not freeze;
periodically inspect the drainage hole and clean it, if necessary, with cotton swabs, a brush, or the pressure of warm water using a rubber bulb.

The problem of clogging of the hole and condensate drain tube is not a serious breakdown, but rather relates to the maintenance procedure of the device.

If during operation of the refrigerator you begin to notice small accumulations of water on its bottom, immediately begin cleaning the drainage system.

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What kind of drainage system can there be on the site?

Open system

The simplest, cheapest, but inconvenient and impractical is open drainage. Everything is simple here: trenches dug directly in the ground are used for drainage. The trenches converge to a water intake pit located at the lowest point of the site.

Pros:

Simplicity and low cost of the device

Minuses:

It is necessary to strengthen the walls of the trenches with trays or supports - otherwise the walls of the trenches will be washed away by water and collapse.
The system makes it difficult to move freely around the site.
There’s no need to even talk about aesthetics.

Photo 2. Open drainage system - there is no need to talk about aesthetics.

Charging system

It also consists of trenches dug on the site. However, in this option they are covered with rubble or a coarse fraction of crushed stone, and turf is laid on top.

Pros:

Does not spoil the appearance of the site.
Does not interfere with movement on it.

Minuses:

The system is practically unmaintainable. If silting inevitably occurs over time, it will be impossible to clean it.

Closed system

It consists of drainage trays and storm water inlets, the water from which is discharged into a specially equipped well. It has its disadvantages:

Expensive compared to the systems listed above.
The complexity of calculation and installation, as well as the labor intensity of installing a drainage system, is already a complex engineering structure.

However, they are easily overcome by the advantages of the system:

A closed drainage system is an order of magnitude more efficient than all others. It not only drains excess water much faster and better, but is also able to effectively protect even a buried foundation.
The system is fully serviceable. Even a silted area can be cleaned without dismantling, using special equipment.
In a closed system, it is possible to drain water not only from the top to the bottom, using gravity. Using a pump (usually automatic), it can be pumped from the lowest points.
Does not interfere with movement around the site.
Due to the good organization of closed drainage systems, they last much longer than the first two options. At the same time, they maintain maximum efficiency throughout their service life, which fully justifies labor-intensive installation.

Photo 3. The closed drainage system is convenient and aesthetically pleasing.

It is about the design of a closed drainage system as the most reliable, modern and practical that we will talk further.

We disassemble the drainage system around the house in detail

Drainage systems can be divided into surface and deep.

Surface drainage

This system consists of rain inlets and closed trays, which are designed to drain excess water from the surface of the site. For convenience, we will disassemble the surface drainage system using the example of Alta-profile products, the range of which has everything we need.

All the elements under consideration are made of plastic, although similar concrete and metal elements are available for sale. Plastic is much lighter and cheaper than concrete, but it is more durable and does not corrode, unlike metal.

Point drainage - storm water inlet - is used where you need to quickly remove a large volume of water from a small area. This is what he looks like.

Photo 4. Storm water inlet.

Rainwater inlets are installed, for example, under gutters or near the porch. And from them, through underground pipes, water is discharged into a common drainage pipe, and then into a well.

To prevent debris and fallen leaves carried by water from getting inside the system, an easily removable plastic basket is placed in it. On top it is closed with a plastic grille, which can easily withstand the weight of a person or, for example, a collision with a car wheel.

Photo 5. Basket and grate for the rain inlet.

Thanks to this solution, all maintenance of the rain inlet is reduced to the need to remove and shake out the garbage from the basket once a year.

The linear drainage system for water disposal on the site is a system of buried channels. It is used in cases where it is necessary to quickly drain water from a large area (sites, driveways). The channels are closed from above with decorative grilles.

Photo 6. Drainage channel and grate.

Drainage into the underground pipe is carried out through sand traps, in which waste collection baskets are also installed. This solution prevents clogging of drainage pipes and facilitates system maintenance. To organize T-shaped and L-shaped connections, plastic trays have pre-made stampings.

Photo 7. Sand trap and basket for it.

A complete drainage system on the site includes both point and linear drainage. But this system, we repeat, is designed to drain rain and melt water. For areas where groundwater is shallow, it is not enough.

Deep drainage

Deep drainage consists of a system of perforated pipes that lie at a greater depth - from a meter to three, depending on the tasks and the groundwater level. The basements of houses are protected from flooding and dampness with the help of deep drainage, while the drainage pipe lies deeper than the bottom point of the foundation.

To prevent sand and soil particles from penetrating into the drainage pipe, leading to silting, the pipe is wrapped with geotextile or a coconut fiber filter.

Pipes are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), asbestos cement or low-density polyethylene (HDPE).

Asbestos-cement pipes are the cheapest, but are banned in some countries due to the harmful effects of asbestos on nature and human health.
PVC pipes are in the middle price segment and are more convenient to use. However, they are not perforated, you will need to make holes in them.
HDPE pipes are more expensive, but they are immediately perforated - and in fact they are a ready-made drainage pipe.

Sometimes pipes initially have a filter, which is a winding of coconut fiber or geofabric.

The choice of pipe depends on the type of soil and depth. For laying in soil with crushed stone, perforated pipes without a filter are suitable, but for loamy and sandy soils a filter layer is required. In clay soils, it is preferable to install a pipe with a coconut filter.

The laid drainage pipes go into a viewing or catchment well. They come in several types.

Rotary, or viewing. They are not the end point of the drainage system and are installed in those places where the drainage pipe turns. Through these wells, the operation of the drainage system is monitored, as well as its cleaning.
Filter wells are the end point of the system. Their bottom is made of layers of crushed stone, gravel and sand, through which water flows into the lower layers of the soil.
Water intake wells are installed when water cannot go deeper on its own - for example, when groundwater is too high. From water intake wells, water is pumped out by drainage pumps into a sewer or reservoir.

The closed system is designed so that water flows under the influence of gravity to the lowest point - the well.

Photo 8. Drainage well.

Subtleties of the drainage device

In general, the design of the drainage system is not very difficult.

Photo 9. One of the possible closed drainage schemes.

For surface linear drainage, it is enough to prepare a trench for laying gutters and lay them on a concrete pad or compacted CFRP. The latter option is used for gutters integrated into paths and platforms made of paving slabs.

Cleaning methods

In most cases, you can clean this passage with your own hands. All methods come down to mechanical cleaning.

Tools, means

For cleaning you can use:

a special cleaning stick (for some models it is included in the kit);
ear sticks;
rubber bulb or syringe (preferably ten cc);
soft wire (preferably copper).

Process description

It is better to start cleaning with a brush or ear sticks. Often the entrance to the drain becomes clogged with food particles. Using a brush or stick, you can easily clear the passage from the initial blockage. Afterwards you can use a rubber bulb. Fill a syringe with warm water, insert the spout into the hole and release water into the system under pressure. The water pressure should clear simple blockages along the tube. You can repeat the procedure several times.