Methods for replacing beam silent blocks


Description of faults and basic information

During vehicle operation, vibrations inevitably appear, which are suppressed by silent blocks. They also prevent deformation. Failure of these parts is accompanied by:

  • unstable behavior of the car on the road;
  • uneven tire wear;
  • squeaks in the rear beam area, impacts on the body (this is especially noticeable on bad roads).

It is worth noting that the described signs are indirect. Loud knocks occur when the rear strut is faulty. In order to accurately determine the cause of the appearance of the described symptoms, it is necessary to diagnose the chassis.

It is necessary to change silent blocks if their design has defects:

  • decreased elasticity of the rubber part;
  • breakage of the rubber part;
  • turning the element in the seat;
  • bushing displacement.

If you notice that there are problems with the chassis, you should immediately drive the car into the garage, carry out diagnostics, and then subsequently replace it.

It is worth going for repairs even after the silent blocks have exhausted their service life. It’s not difficult to do it yourself.

Replacing the rear pillar on a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

Welcome! Rear strut - it performs the function of holding the car on the road, does not allow it to roll too much in corners, and also keeps the car on the road when hitting a bump and thus it does not lose control from this, in addition, the struts cause either discomfort (If not high-quality rack), or, on the contrary, it gives pleasure from driving and makes the car smoother and more confident on the road.

Note! In order to change the rack, you will need to take with you: A set of wrenches, in which you will have large wrenches of approximately “17” and “19”, in addition to this you will also need a screwdriver, and you can also stock up on a wrench and to it with cap heads! (Also take an adjustable wrench or some healthy pliers with you)

Where is the rear pillar? From the title you can already assume that since it is the rear, then it is located in the rear of the car, but not everyone knows where exactly, so just below you can see a photo in which the wheel has been removed from the car and you can almost completely see the rack itself.

Note! Any car strut, no matter the front or rear, consists of two important things, namely the shock absorber itself (Indicated in the photo above by a red arrow) and, accordingly, a spring (Indicated by a blue arrow) that holds the car and does not allow it to drop to too low a height, Well, in some ways, the spring softens the blow when hitting a bump, but still the most basic unit thanks to which the shock is absorbed when hitting a bump is the shock absorber itself!

When do you need to change the rear strut? To find out when it has become unusable, you need to go to a specialized car service center and have them undergo a technical inspection of the car (They have a special device for this) which will tell you whether the struts need to be replaced or not, but you can always manage to go to a car service station (For example you live in a village where there is no service that specializes specifically in suspension), so in this case you need to check the racks for serviceability yourself, namely look at them, you already know where they are, and if you suddenly find traces of oil on them then it is necessary to replace it quickly (Applies only to shock absorbers), and there should be no deformation on all parts, including the spring itself, namely, the spring should not have cracks, and in conclusion, let’s note a couple of facts, if when hitting a bump recently you start to experience knocking noises, and also if the car behaves loosely in corners and easily tips over to its side, then this all indicates a malfunction of the struts, which in this case you will need to replace.

Note! Carry out a small experiment that will help identify the malfunction of the struts, to do this, put your hands on the outer part of the rear wing of the car and rock the car, and then when the wing is at the lowest point, immediately remove your hands from it and if the car then swings first up, then down and stop, then everything is fine with the racks, but if it floats without stopping or sways more than once, then you will have to replace the racks! (Do this operation on each side, that is, if, for example, the car floats on the rear left side, and sits rigidly in place on the right side, then only the left strut is faulty and needs to be replaced)

Purchasing a new item

So, you have found out that problems with the chassis are associated with the breakdown of silent blocks.
Before starting work, you must purchase a new spare part. First of all, look at the labeling. It is important to buy an option specifically for the VAZ-2109. If you make a mistake, it will be impossible to install the silent block. The spare part must be marked: 2109-2914054. Many auto parts sellers may recommend purchasing a spare part from the “ten”, but to install it you will have to work hard to press the rubber part. There are two types of silent blocks:

  1. With rubber bushings. Traditional spare part, provides softness during suspension operation. The main disadvantage is the fragility of such a spare part, especially if you often travel along sections of the road with poor asphalt surface.
  2. With polyurethane inserts. More rigid, which is its main drawback. Moreover, such a spare part lasts much longer, since it is resistant to temperature changes and deformations.

Choose a silent block based on material based on your budget and preferences. Manufacturers BelMag, SEVI, SS20 and Boge have earned good reviews from experts and car enthusiasts.

How is the replacement carried out?

Before starting work, place the car over a hole or drive it onto an overpass. Be sure to secure the wheels with chocks. Next, follow the instructions:

  1. Remove the rear wheel. It will be much easier to work without it.
  2. To replace the silent block you will not need to remove the rear beam, so do not rush to dismantle it.
  3. When working on the left side, you will need to remove the linkage associated with the pressure regulator at the rear of the brake system. To do this, you will need to remove the handbrake cable from the mount located on the right side and the rod fixing bracket.
  4. Using a 12mm wrench, unscrew the nut located on the rear beam mount. Here you may need to create additional leverage using a socket wrench that fits over the knob. After you remove this bolt, jack up the side of the car you are working on.
  5. Carefully push the beam down until it comes out of the eyelet. Watch your actions, as you risk breaking the brake hose.
  6. Prepare a wooden block in advance, which at this stage will need to be placed between the body and the eye. In this case, the beam should be below the eye.
  7. Further work can be done with a special tool, but we will tell you how to dismantle the silent block without a puller. Take a metal tube and a hammer and use them to knock out the old bushings.
  8. Clean the seat.
  9. To make crimping easier, lubricate the seats with soapy water or dishwashing liquid. In this case, it is forbidden to lubricate the seats with oil or grease, since these chemical compounds will corrode the rubber part of the part over time.
  10. Using a hammer or special tool, press the silent blocks into place. Reassemble the vehicle.

Upon completion of work, carefully tighten each silent block support. As you can see, this job is not difficult to do even alone. It takes no more than an hour.

Features of elements

The main function of silents is to eliminate vibrations and deformations that occur during vehicle operation.

When choosing new silent blocks for the rear beam of a VAZ 2109, pay attention to the markings. It should be 2109-2914054. For VAZ 2114-15 models, the markings are different, but the elements themselves are very similar.

In principle, it is possible to install a silent block from a dozen on a VAZ 2109, but you will have to work hard with pressing in the rubber bushing due to the difference in size. The reverse procedure is not possible.


Rear beam

Useful tips

The brake hose is located on the beam. If the eye is moved, it can be damaged. Pay attention to this point and be careful when working. Most often, damage occurs from contact with the mount. Always look at what it is leaning on.

In most cases, it will not be possible to simply unscrew the fastening nut. In this case, you need to tap it out. Just don’t hit the nut, hit the screw, the vibration will make it much easier to unscrew it. Using a pipe will also make the task easier. It is put on the knob, this way you can increase the lever and, accordingly, the force transmitted to the nut. As a rule, after such exposure, the most rusted connection gives in.

Conclusion

. The suspension of all cars on domestic roads is subjected to serious tests. Therefore, work such as replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam on a VAZ 2109 is not uncommon. In fact, there is nothing complicated here. The main thing is to do everything in a certain order, and there will be no problems during work.

Symptoms of a problem

There are several main signs of failure of the rear beam silent blocks, including:

  • Unstable behavior of the car on the roads;
  • Tires wear unevenly, which is not difficult to notice from the tread pattern;
  • When driving on a bad road (that is, 95% of all our roads), unpleasant squeaks and impacts on the car body are observed.

These signs are indirect, since they may be associated with other failures of the vehicle’s chassis. For example, dull knocks are also a sign of a faulty rear pillar. Therefore, in order to make sure that there is a particular problem, you will need to fully diagnose the chassis.

Malfunctions

Often, replacing the rear beam bushings is due to the fact that defects arise in the design of the element. They are like this:

  • The elasticity of the rubber element deteriorates;
  • The rubber breaks;
  • The central bushing is displaced;
  • Rotations occur in the seat.

If problems are detected with the silent block of the rear beam, you will need to drive the car into the garage in the near future and replace the damaged components. Unlike foreign cars, changing the silent seal on a VAZ 2109 is quite simple and without outside help. Plus it costs almost pennies.

Before you start replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam, you need to decide what exactly you will replace the old, worn bushings with.

We figured out the markings and realized that for the VAZ 2109 you need to take only those that are suitable in size and diameter for the rear beam of the nine.

Today, for the VAZ 2109 they offer two types of silents, differing in the material of manufacture.

Silent block type

Peculiarities

They are not as durable, but provide greater softness when operating the car's suspension.

A more rigid modification, in which the increased rigidity is the main disadvantage. At the same time, these products are more resistant to temperature changes, do not deform so quickly, and remain operational longer.


Size difference

To replace you will need:

  • New rear silent blocks;
  • A small wooden beam;
  • A device for pressing in a silent block (you can do the job without it);
  • Open-end wrenches;
  • Socket wrenches;
  • Spanners;
  • Hammer.


Dismantling work
When everything is ready, you can start working.

  1. Place the car on a level surface in the garage above a pit or overpass. Be sure to place wheel chocks and shoes under the wheels. All for your safety.
  2. It is better to remove the rear wheel to make it easier to work.
  3. But it is not at all necessary to remove the rear beam. Just complicate your work with unnecessary dismantling processes.
  4. On the left side of the driver is the pressure regulator rod for the rear brakes. It will disturb you while you work, so we advise you to remove it. This is done by removing the locking bracket of the rod and the handbrake cable. You will remove the latter from the right side from the mount.
  5. Unscrew the nut from the bolt with a 12mm wrench that holds the rear beam to the bracket. This may cause problems. Place a socket wrench on the driver to increase leverage on the fastener. Remove the bolt, lift the car with a jack and move the beam down. It will come out of the eyelet this way. Do not overdo it to avoid damaging the nearby brake hose. If you press too hard on the pry bar while moving the eye, you risk breaking the hose.
  6. Take a pre-prepared wooden block and insert it between the body and the beam. This must be done so that the beam is below the eye.
  7. Using a hammer and a drift (regular metal tubing will do), knock out the old worn bushings. By the way, if you come across such a concept as “fungi”, don’t worry. This is what car enthusiasts often call these bushings because of their external similarity.
  8. Clean the seat from accumulated dirt and rust. Be sure to lubricate the areas with soapy water. Without it, it will be difficult to press in new silent blocks. Or use a simple dish detergent. Under no circumstances should you lubricate the seats with grease or oil, as these substances will soon begin to corrode the element.
  1. Now it presses in new elements. Ideally, you should have a special pressing tool. If you don't have one, use a regular hammer.
  2. Take out a wooden block.
  3. Armed with a second jack, lift the beam and insert the mounting bolt into place and tighten it with a nut.
  4. Reinstall the rear wheel and lower the car to the ground.

Malfunctions and their symptoms

Car parts are in constant friction and interaction. They wear out and break, especially for rubber elements.

The safety margin of the rear hinges is enough for 100 thousand kilometers. But already at 50 thousand km their condition is checked. Assess the degree of wear and the need to replace the silent blocks of the rear beam of the 2013 Kia Rio.

For this:

  • the car is driven into a viewing hole;
  • clean the joints and fastening points from dirt;
  • carry out a visual inspection.

If cracks and tears are found on the rubber inserts, replace the silent blocks of the Kia Rio 2013 rear beam with your own hands or in the salon.

A deformed unit will affect the operation of the power unit. This threatens the safety of the driver and passengers.

Driving on bad roads and extreme driving style accelerate wear of the part. Vehicle behavior is changing:

  • vibration of the car increases while driving;
  • when driving in a straight line the car pulls to the side;
  • tires wear out faster, especially on the sides;
  • the suspension creaks and knocks and becomes stiffer.

When the car gives such signals, it is time to service the suspension and its hinge joints. If you do not do this, you will have to change the levers, because the hinge seats - the metal parts - will be deformed. Replacing the rear silent blocks of a Kia Rio 3 in such cases is expensive.

Replacing rear beam silent blocks on a VAZ 2109

For VAZ-2109 owners at the 100,000 km mark.
mileage, special attention must be paid to the rear suspension. Usually, by this moment one of the elements of its design, the silent block, becomes unusable, although when the car is used on bad roads, wear accelerates significantly. The need for replacement is determined very simply: when it is worn out, you will hear characteristic creaks and knocking sounds on the right or left behind. In more severe cases, increased (and uneven) tire wear may occur, coupled with unstable behavior of the rear of the car in corners. Fortunately, domestic cars are extremely repairable even in spartan conditions, so you can easily replace a damaged part in your garage. How to change silent blocks on a VAZ 2109, read below.

Tools and materials:

What you will need:

  • wheel wrench:
  • new silent block (article 2108-2914054)
  • 2 spanners for 19;
  • hammer and drift;
  • 2 jacks;
  • a small piece of wood of a certain size.

Silent blocks come in two types: rubber and polyurethane. According to the standard, “Samara” is placed first. They are quite soft and have a reasonable price, although they are not very durable. The latter last longer, withstand temperature fluctuations better, but are also noticeably tougher (and even significantly more expensive).

If we talk about manufacturers, there are a lot of them - from VAZ, which is well known, to SS20 and SEVI, which are unfamiliar to a wide range of car enthusiasts. So there is a choice, and it’s up to you to decide what to install – original or non-original, polyurethane or rubber.

Replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam of a VAZ 2109

1) To begin, place the car on a jack and remove the wheel from the desired side using a wheel wrench.

2) Next, take the 19mm wrenches and unscrew the nuts on the bolts securing the bracket and rear beam.

3) Then you need to remove the mounting bracket (it will be on the left) and disconnect the pressure regulator rod in the brake system.

4) Now you can pull out the bolt itself and move the rear beam eye downwards. Keep in mind that it must be fixed in this position. The ideal option for this is a small wooden block, which should be placed in the space between the beam and the body.

5) Arm yourself with a hammer and a drift, then knock out the old silent block.

6) Take a new part and a device for pressing it in, generously coat the seat and the silent block itself with soapy water (it will act as a lubricant) and install it.

7) Take another jack, remove the block and raise the beam to the desired level, then insert the bolt and tighten the nut, but do not tighten it. Place the mounting bracket and rod in place.

8) Place the wheel and remove the car from the jack. Having opened the trunk, sit in the opening and try to rock the car up and down with a large amplitude so that the silent block fits completely into place. Now the nuts of the mounting bolts can be tightened completely.

Important nuances and points

If the nuts are very rusty, clean them with a wire brush, spray them with WD-40 and unscrew them with a wrench with a pipe on it. The long lever of force will help you move the nut, and then you can do it without the pipe.

There is no need to move the beam down particularly much - there is a risk of breaking the brake hose, which could result in its replacement, coupled with pouring in new fluid and bleeding the system due to airing.

Under no circumstances try to lubricate a new silent block with oil or grease/lithol before installation! They will quickly corrode the rubber, so the best choice is a soap solution or dishwashing detergent.

It is easy to see that there is nothing extremely complicated about replacing the silent block in the rear axle, however, this procedure is not entirely simple. So if you are doing this for the first time, it is advisable to ask a more experienced person to assist you in some stages, and then you will succeed.

DIY reinforced rear beam for VAZ 2109

I couldn’t sit calmly, I wanted to modify the rear suspension. The independent suspension was immediately dropped due to the cost of 27,500 auto product, judging by the price it was removed from F1 or it is made from vibranium from which Tony Stark’s father wanted to make a shield))). A beam with guy wires is what I need, I thought, BUT again the PRICE and my friend TOAD dissuaded me from rash actions.

After looking at the design of the reinforced beam and climbing the network, I decided to make it myself. To do this, I bought 2 jet rods from a Lada, 4 bolts and nuts. At work, without removing the beam from the machine, I took a tape measure, marked everything and went ahead. Ears for the levers were cut out of 3 mm sheet,

Marking the middle of the beam.

Drilled the center brackets.

Here they are already in place.

With the side ones it was more difficult, I drilled them one by one, welded the inner one and marked the outer one through it.

Fitting

All with copper grease.

The beam is ready.

I haven’t installed the rod (stabilizer) while I’m riding like this. I wanted to make adjustable rods, but that's for next time.

Now about the result: the car has become more composed, turning and changing lanes goes better in the rut and confidently holds the road, maybe this is again a placebo, but I like it))).

Reaction rod 2101-07 large transverse 2x280 560 rub. Bolt m12x70x1.25 fastening reagent. rods 2101-07 4x20 80 rub. Nut m12x1.25 with nail. ring 4x10 40 rub.

It will take you 2 hours to do everything without rushing. That's all for now...

Replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam of a VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 with your own hands

We will show you visual photo and video instructions on how you can replace the silent blocks of the rear beam on VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099, VAZ 2108 cars with your own hands

We tear off the bolts on the rear wheels. During work, the handbrake cable will interfere with us, so we remove it from the cordon in advance. Remove the pressure regulator rod:

We have the fastening bolts installed incorrectly in this place, it should be installed with the head facing outward, unscrew it:

It is worth noting that all this work on unscrewing the bolts is carried out on a standing machine; if it is raised, the bolts will be under load and will not be easy to unscrew.

Repair/Replacement of the rear beam of VAZ 21099, 2109, 2108

There are a huge number of reasons why the rear beam needs to be removed. You will begin to hear a somewhat strange sound (muffled impacts, clinking of metal, squealing rubber, etc.) that will be emitted from the rear of the car: they can be emitted in a constant manner, directly on bumps, or while cornering. Only a person who has sufficient experience in this field will be able to determine the actual problem. The reason for this is the fact that there are so many possible options. At the same time, the stabilizer knocks. The silent blocks may well “shift” to the side, or they are simply worn out, the bearings on the axle shafts may “play” and there are many other possible options... it is recommended to go for diagnostics to a specialist, despite the fact that you decided to carry out the repair yourself.

It is most rational to install and dismantle the beam on a lift. However, if this is not possible, the rear part is carefully lifted with a jack and supports are placed under the sockets for greater support of the jack. And in such a situation, do not forget to initially place shoes under the front wheels, and also engage the gear.

So, the progress of the work:

The nuts remain on the wheels as long as the car is still on the ground. The car rises. Shock absorbers are removed from the rear suspension on both sides. The handbrake cables are disconnected and the cable jackets are also removed from the bracket on the body. The brackets with which the cable is attached to the body are bent, and both cables are pulled out of the brackets. The elastic drive lever, which serves as a pressure regulator, is directed through the earring, while it is connected to the lever bracket. This earring can be detached from the bracket directly on the rear axle beam. In this case, having disconnected the brake hoses on the beam on both sides of the tubes, you must immediately close the hole with something, thereby preventing unwanted leakage of brake fluid. On both sides it is necessary to unscrew one nut from the bolts, with the help of which the beams are attached to the brackets. Bolts are knocked out. Currently, you can remove the beam simply by rolling it out on wheels;

Let's try to give you some practical recommendations.

- when you plan to disassemble the beam, it is worth slightly loosening the tension of the hub nuts, as well as other connections that are tightened with a large torque, a little in advance.

— it is best to replace rubber-metal balls in a specialized workshop, since for these purposes you will need a special tool for the job, and in addition, you must have experience in such work.

— In the factory documentation, it was mentioned about dismantling the beam together with the brackets, and it is necessary to unscrew three nuts holding them. However, after some time of prolonged use of the car, the studs begin to rust, and they may well crack. For this reason, it is recommended to remove the beam by simply unscrewing it from the brackets, which continue to “hang” on the body.

— Reinstallation of the beam is performed in the reverse order of removal, and there are absolutely no tricks.

— The nuts of the existing bolts should be tightened while the VAZ vehicle is returned to the ground, in addition, this procedure should be repeated after 80-100 km of running-in.

— do not forget to bleed the brake system after installation, properly adjust the handbrake and, if necessary, look at the wheel alignment.

Replacing the rear beam of a VAZ 2109 video

Replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam of a VAZ 2109 with your own hands

Welcome, friends, to the DIY car repair website. Silent blocks from the VAZ manufacturer can safely be called a high-quality spare part; they are used in the chassis of various brands of cars because they are an integral part of it.

Durability, of course, depends on the driver’s driving style, but generally their service life is long and amounts to more than tens of thousands of kilometers.

Silent blocks of the rear beam of VAZ 2109

Their main function is to eliminate various deformations and vibrations that occur during operation of your iron horse.

Replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam VAZ 2109, 08, 099 are identical in action, they are marked 2108-2914054. Other brands VAZ 2114, 2115 have different markings, although the silent blocks are very similar, but still different.

Their differences are only in size. It turns out that a tens of rubber bushing can be pressed into the nines beam, but you will have to work hard, because it is a little larger, but the reverse operation can no longer be performed.

The main signs of wear of this part of the car are instability of the car, uneven wear of the tires, when driving on a bad road or bumps, you can hear impacts on the car body and an unpleasant squeak.

These symptoms may also indicate other problems with the vehicle's chassis. Suppose a dull knock can be heard due to faulty rear pillars. So, in order to make sure of this, you need to undergo a complete diagnostic of the chassis.

Replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam, in comparison with foreign cars, is a fairly simple job. And the price of silent blocks is not at all high.

The main defects of silent blocks:

  • Reducing the elasticity of the elastic band.
  • Rubber breakage.
  • Center bushing mixing.
  • Rotating in the seat.

In order to independently replace the rear silent blocks, you need to find a small beam, it is advisable to have a device with which we will press in, although we can do without it, open-end wrenches, socket or cap wrenches and of course a hammer, without it, as you know, repairs for some reason do not work out very well .

The main steps for replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam:

To start work, you need to drive the car into a pit or overpass and place wheel chocks under the front wheels, this is done for safety, you never know what happens. We remove the rear wheel for convenience. I would like to say right away that replacing the rear silent blocks is carried out without removing the beam.

On the driver's side, that is, on the left, there is a rod for the pressure regulator of the rear brakes, it will get in the way, so it will have to be dismantled, this can be done easily, you just need to pull out the bracket that secures it photo 1 (a), and on the right, pull out the handbrake cable from the mount photo 1 (b).

We unscrew the nineteen nut from the bolt that secures the rear beam to the bracket photo 1 (c). We remove this bolt. Next you need to lift the car with a jack and move the beam down so that it comes out of the eyelets.

Now we take a block (of course it must be made of wood) and insert it between the beam and the body so that the beam is lower than the eyelets (photo 2 (d).

Using a small sledgehammer or hammer using a drift (tube), we knock out the unusable rubber bushings; they are also popularly called fungi, photo 2 (e).

The seat must be cleaned of dirt and rust and lubricated with a solution made from water and soap. Otherwise, it will be difficult to press the bushings.

The next step will be pressing. For this you need a special device. If it is missing, press the bushing in with a hammer.

We remove the block. Using another jack, you need to lift the beam and insert the fastening bolt, tightening it with a nut. Put the rear wheel on and lower the car. Now you need to tighten all the silent block bolts until they stop.

Now the question will probably disappear and it will become clear how to replace the silent blocks of the rear beam with your own hands on a VAZ 2109 car.

Usually, replacing the rear silent blocks of a VAZ 2110 is quite cheap. Therefore, many decide to perform this procedure directly at home. What are the advantages of replacing it yourself? The fact is that replacing silent blocks in the rear beam of a VAZ 2110 will cost several times less.

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