The size of the silent block of the rear beam of the VAZ 2110

Failed silent blocks are a problem that owners of domestic cars encounter quite often. The procedure for replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of a VAZ 21010 is simple at first glance, but this impression is deceptive. There are a number of nuances in it that the car owner should remember. We will talk about how to change silent blocks yourself in this article.

Purpose of silent blocks

Set of silent blocks for front levers

Their purpose is simple: to make the car move as smoothly as possible. It is because of the silent blocks that the car’s suspension has the ability to “play”, softening the shocks that occur when the car overcomes uneven roads. There are silent blocks in both the front and rear suspension arms, not far from the wheels. They are tightly pressed into these levers, so you won't be able to see them. And in order to replace the silent blocks, you will first have to remove the suspension arms. There is no other way to reach them.

How to know when it's time to change

There are several signs that the silent blocks have become unusable.

The first sign is a characteristic knocking or grinding noise that is heard when the car is moving and which intensifies significantly when the road is uneven.
The second sign is that if one or more silent blocks are broken, then the car becomes much more difficult to control, especially when turning.
Even if none of the above is observed, a problem with silent blocks can still emerge, for example, at the moment when the car owner arrives at a car service center and decides to adjust the wheel alignment. It is at this moment that service employees can tell him unpleasant news.

Making a puller with your own hands

As mentioned above, silent blocks are tightly pressed into the levers and into the so-called “stretch” on the suspension. You can press the new silent block into the extension using a regular chisel and hammer. But pressing the silent block into the suspension arm is a very labor-intensive procedure and cannot be done without a special device (puller). You can look for a puller in a car dealership, or you can skip wasting time on searching and make it yourself; fortunately, it’s not difficult. To make a puller, we need a bolt (M12), the length of the bolt is at least 180 mm. You should select a nut for it, and it should be high - at least 20 mm. You will also need a bushing. Length - at least 60 mm, internal diameter - 39 mm (such a sleeve can be made from a piece of pipe suitable in diameter) and two or three wide washers. What should happen in the end can be seen in the photographs below.

Homemade puller option

Replacing silent blocks VAZ 2110

The instructions provided below will tell you how to replace silent blocks on your car yourself. Parts require maximum monitoring and replacement. On average, a silent block lasts about 100 thousand kilometers, but of course Russian roads do not fall under any rules. We need to change silent blocks every 50 thousand kilometers. Silent blocks deteriorate and immediately make themselves known. The most common symptoms are unpleasant knocking and grinding noises while driving the car. The car groans and behaves unsteadily on the road; at some points it is not even controllable. You can replace silent blocks yourself, without the help of others. When replacing, you will have to work a little, it will take you about several hours. If you change silent blocks at a Technical Service Station, it will cost you one and a half thousand rubles. Here you can rely on your budget to handle it yourself or outsource it to specialists. Below are photo instructions that will tell you how to handle the replacement yourself. About the procedure for replacing silent blocks: And so, the first thing we will need to do is dismantle the engine splash guard. — Unscrew the ball joint and disconnect it from the lever. — Now let’s take the open-end wrench set to “twenty-four” and carefully hold the stretcher. Next, use a union wrench to unscrew the nut. — Let’s take a key set to “seventeen” and unscrew the nut that secures the stabilizer link to the lever. Let's take a drift, it will be better if it is made of soft metal and take out the bolt. — Take two nineteen keys and unscrew the nut that secures the lever to the body. Take it out, you can knock it out and remove the lever from the bracket. — Carefully remove the puck from the stretcher. On the stretcher, angle adjustment washers are hidden behind the washer. — In order to remove the brace from the crossbar, you need to take two “twenty-four” keys and unscrew the nut. Next, we need to remove the washer and remove the stretcher from the washer. — To replace the silent block you need to install it in a vice, you can also use a puller. — We treat the new silent block with soapy water and install it in the lever. — After this, you need to knock down the silent block of the brace using a chisel. We remove one, and do the same for the second. We install the new silent block in a vice and set it to the maximum. Using a medium-sized hammer, strike. What do we need for replacements? — Brand new silent blocks. — Liquid soap. — A set of keys is standard. - Chisel and hammer. — The liquid is good. — A special puller, a small piece of pipe of a suitable diameter will also work. — A brush that can be used to clean metal. — Screwdriver, knife (the end should be blunt). - Vise. — Gas burner or blowtorch.

And so, the first step is to purchase new silent blocks.

The photo shows a special puller with which we can dismantle silent blocks.

The car needs to be installed on the inspection hole, then unscrew the two bolts of the suspension arm.

Using a gas torch (with a nozzle), carefully burn out the silent block.

Clean the landing area carefully using a metal brush, a file will do.

The new silent block needs to be treated with a special solution, then take a regular screwdriver and carefully straighten the edges of the silent block. Press the silent block into the lever using a special puller.

Don't rush, make sure the part doesn't warp.

Silent block installed.

Now we need to disconnect the extension bracket and remove it from the silent block.

Take out the old silent block.

Now let’s use a chisel, also take a hammer and bend the edges of the extension silent block ring. There is one part left that we need to press out of the silent block of the extension.

Next we need to get the second part of the outer ring.

Clean the landing area, take a puller and install a new silent block.

We can assemble the lever.

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Sequence of actions when replacing a VAZ 2110

The car is installed above the inspection hole, then the lower protective cover of the VAZ 2110 engine compartment is removed.
The fastening nuts on the front arms are unscrewed, then the nuts of the front stabilizers are unscrewed (this is done using a 17 wrench).

Mounting nut removed

Unscrewing the nut on the extension

Unscrewing the second nut by 24

Removing the old block with a chisel

Stripping the eyelet with a knife

Pressing in the silent block with a vice

Video example of replacing silent blocks of front control arms

Replacing front silent blocks on a VAZ 2110

Often, beginners prefer to contact a car service to replace the silent blocks of the front control arms. And it’s completely in vain, because car repair shops charge quite a large amount for the service. Here it is necessary to emphasize that service stations do not always perform work at the proper level.

To carry out repairs, the motorist will need a special puller.

This tool is quite expensive and is required in exceptional cases. Therefore, it is advisable to borrow it from a familiar service station employee. There are many recommendations, instructions and even videos on the Internet that allow you to make the puller in question with your own hands. If there is free time, the motorist can make it using 2 tubes, washers and a special foot.

If you need to replace the silent blocks of the front levers of the VAZ 2110 , then you need to know that the beam design has two elements.

One silent block is located in the upper arm, and the second is located in the lower arm. Therefore, we will focus on replacing each element.

Important points

Unscrewing nuts with a 24 mm spanner can be a very difficult task. To move such a nut out of place, as a rule, enormous force is required. And not only that, each next revolution will also require considerable effort. Therefore, it is best to use a long tube mounted on a spanner as a lever.

To make the nuts even easier to unscrew, you can pour plenty of oil on them and wait 10 minutes.

The silent blocks should be pressed in with a hammer blow (or a sledgehammer blow) only after placing the lever on a flat metal surface. In this case, the blow must be very accurate; at the slightest misalignment of the hammer, there is a risk of damage to the silent block.

In order to avoid the above damage, it makes sense to press the silent block into the extension using a vice. A vice will be needed in any case, since new blocks rarely fit completely into the eye after one blow. They almost always need to be “added.”

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In order for the new silent block to fit into the eye as deeply as possible, it should be lubricated. An ordinary dishwashing gel, liquid soap or plain soapy water is suitable as a lubricant.

When should you change?

Usually, the driver will probably guess that the silent block has failed. If a replacement is needed, discomfort while driving will tell you about it. You can feel distinct “iron” impacts and noises in the suspension. But that's not all.

If urgent measures are not taken, the VAZ 2110’s fastenings and connections will break and play will appear. The wheel alignment angles will also suffer, which obviously will not lead to any good.

There are some symptoms to look out for that these rubber parts are worn out:

When driving, the tires on the wheels squeak. Not necessarily much. There shouldn't even be a slight squeak;
A knocking sound is heard in the wheel area. The point here is the poor rotation of the collapsing silent blocks;
As the silent block wears out, it first becomes covered with cracks and then completely falls apart. Here only the deaf can no longer hear the knocks.

Symptoms of replacement

By what signs can you understand that a VAZ-2110 car requires replacement of silent blocks? You can diagnose the serviceability of the seals without leaving the car, right on the go. If while driving you notice a characteristic rubber squeak or knocking noise, most likely the product has become unusable. Backlash also appears. Replacement of silent blocks (VAZ-2110 8 valves included) is also carried out when the car begins to roll when cornering.

Due to cracks or wear-out, the machine is not able to “swallow” bumps and rolls normally. Uneven tire wear also occurs. Over time, this effect increases. If you ignore this problem, the steering wheel will shake at speed and the car will pull to the side. Therefore, the malfunction should be eradicated at an early stage. If there are creaks and knocks in the wheel area, this indicates that the car needs to replace the silent blocks of the rear beam. VAZ-2110 can be repaired with your own hands. What tools will be needed for this? We'll talk about this later.

Front suspension

For the front suspension, silent blocks are provided: front beam, upper, lower arm.

Replacement for parts of the front upper arm of the VAZ 2110 occurs as follows:

You need to jack up and secure the car;
Remove the front wheel;
Unscrew and knock out the support. To do this, hit the bipod with a hammer, turning the wheel out;
Once the support is knocked out, it becomes possible to remove the upper front control arm. To do this, unscrew a long bolt from the side. At the same time they look at the axial play. If it is palpable, replacement may be warranted;
Removing the silent tape is quite simple using a chisel and a hammer. The main thing is to accurately calculate the impact in order to avoid damage to other parts. Sometimes very “stubborn” silent blocks have to be drilled out and only then knocked out;
You can press in a new silent block by pressing it into the socket using a smaller bushing until it sits securely there.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front lower control arms of a VAZ 2110 is a more difficult task; to complete it, you will need:

Remove the stabilizer so that the lever can be moved;
Unscrew the nuts holding the silents;
Remove the rubber bushings (same as in the case of the upper arm);
Press in new ones, and then be sure to fix them in the loaded state of the VAZ 2110.

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Rear suspension

For the rear suspension, it is better to replace the silent blocks by removing the beam, although this can also be done directly on the car. The installation of the rear rubber bushings is identical to that on the front beam. Pressing out and installation is best done using a mounting device.

However, if it is not there, then the especially “stubborn” ones will be knocked out of the rear silent bars of the VAZ 2110 by holding the part in which they are located in a vice. A mandrel is used, sometimes even sawed.

A faulty rear suspension manifests itself by the appearance of a characteristic knocking sound from the rear. Details: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/podveska/zadnyaya-podveska.html

Both rear silent blocks are oriented along the lever and pressed flush against the end of the eye.

Today we will talk about how to replace silent blocks on a VAZ 2110.

The suspension is one of the most loaded devices of a car, since it constantly absorbs all the oscillatory movements of the wheel that are transmitted to it from the road surface.

Suspension design features

A feature of the suspension design is that many of its elements should not be rigidly connected, otherwise it will transfer all the vibration to the body.

How does the VAZ 2110 suspension work?

Therefore, some composite suspensions are connected by means of rubber bushings and rubber pads with metal bushings inside, i.e. silent blocks.

So, in the front independent suspension of the VAZ-2110 the following are connected to each other through silent blocks:

Lower arm;
Stretching;
Anti-roll bar.

Consequences of consumables malfunction

It should be noted that silent blocks and bushings are consumables.

Due to heavy loads, it is possible that the rubber part of the silent block may be pressed through, detached from the metal bushing, and the rubber itself may delaminate. As a result, they are no longer able to work properly.

This results in knocking from the suspension, the appearance of creaks, when driving, especially over uneven surfaces, the car can throw from side to side, and the more wear on the silent blocks, the stronger the tossing will be.

Also, due to worn silent blocks, the angles of the wheel position - camber and toe - change, because of which the car will no longer hold the road, it will begin to drift in any direction, the tires will quickly wear out due to incorrect angles.

So, the condition of all rubber elements of the car suspension must be constantly monitored, and if signs of malfunction appear, they must be promptly replaced.

With certain knowledge and the availability of tools, you can replace silent blocks yourself without contacting a service center.

It should be noted right away that even if damage to one or two silent blocks is detected, it is better to completely replace all rubber parts of the suspension, and not just the damaged ones.

Also, all elements are replaced immediately on the left and right sides of the car.

Tools and accessories

There are not so many tools that will be required to replace all consumables, but some of them are specific.

Set of keys, heads, knobs;
A set of new oil seals and bushings;
Device for pressing out and pressing in silent blocks;
Puller for ball joint;
Jack;
Stops;
Vise;
Hammer and wooden spacers;
Soap solution.

Device for pressing out and pressing in silent blocks.

You can buy it or make it yourself.

The simplest homemade device consists of a long bolt with a nut, pieces of pipe with different diameters and several thick washers.

The principle of operation of such a device is very simple.

To press out the silent block, take a bolt and put a washer on it, the size is slightly smaller than the diameter of the rubber part of the silent block.

The bolt is passed through the bushing of the silent block. On the other hand, a piece of pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the seat, for example, a lever, is thrown onto the bolt.

That is, the pipe will have to rest against the circumference of the seat in the lever.

Next, another washer is put on the bolt, its circumference larger than the diameter of the pipe, and then the nut is screwed on.

Pressing out is done like this: the nut, when screwed on, will pull towards itself the washer resting on the silent block.

The installed tube will allow it to come out of the seat and not rest against another washer.

Pressing is done in exactly the same way, with the only difference that it is not necessary to use a piece of pipe, since the silent block will rest against the thrust washer when it sits in place.

You can even press-fit without using a device; it is enough to have only a vice, between the jaws of which a new silent block and lever are installed, so that it and its seat are on the same axis.

Next, the vice compresses and the consumable itself falls into place. But in this way you can install silent blocks only on the lever and stabilizer struts, but on the cross member you will still need a device for replacement.

Replacement of silent blocks of front levers of VAZ 2110

Some car owners are afraid to replace the silent blocks of the front beam on a VAZ 2110 on their own. But in vain. Contacting a service station entails serious financial costs. Plus, it’s far from a fact that the service station will do your job better than you would have done yourself.

Zapisovka

The only thing is that you may need the help of a car service friend. All service stations have a special puller in their tool arsenal. There is no point in purchasing it, since it is expensive and is rarely needed by a car owner. Some craftsmen even make their own puller using a homemade method. There are many drawings and diagrams according to which it is made. So you can try it if you have free time.

The design of the puller is quite simple - the puller legs are about 20 centimeters long, a pair of washers and two tubes.

There are two silent blocks in the front beam - in the front upper and front lower arm . The procedure for replacing them is somewhat different from each other, so we will consider the processes separately.

Front upper control arm silent block

Broken
Let us immediately note that it is easier to work with it than with the second element. The entire procedure involves performing several sequential operations.

Raise the car on a jack and secure it in a stationary position. Turn on the handbrake, put stoppers under the wheels.
Remove the front wheel.
Unscrew and remove the support. To do this, you will need to turn the wheel out and hit the bipod with a hammer. It is better to do this through some kind of insert.
By knocking out the support, you can remove the upper front control arm without serious problems.
There is a bolt on the side, it is quite long. Unscrew it. Inspect the end play. Most likely, it is quite serious and is easily felt when checking. Therefore, you absolutely correctly decided to change the silent blocks.
You can remove the silent block with a hammer and chisel. Just don't hit it too hard, or you'll damage other suspension components.
In some cases, the silent block sits very firmly, so you can’t do without a drill and drilling it. After making the holes, you can safely remove the element.
Now use the smaller bushing to press the new silent block into place. The part must fit firmly and securely into the socket.

about axial play . To eliminate it, you can go in two ways:

The first is to replace the entire pole. The option is so-so, since its cost is very high, but the quality is quite low;
The second is to tighten a couple of washers from the sides. They will not allow the mounting bolt to dangle.

The disadvantage of the second option is that installing washers sometimes leads to a situation where the silent block does not fit on the lever. Therefore, you have to reduce it with a hacksaw. Unfortunately, this leads to a reduction in the service life of the silent block.

Front lower control arm silent block

This procedure is rightly considered more complicated. Although even every motorist can handle it on his own.

Recording method

Remove the stabilizer. This will give you the ability to move the lever laterally.
Next, remove all the nuts holding the silent block stationary.
Remove the lower arm silent blocks. To do this, you will have to carry out all the activities that we described in the previous section when we removed the parts of the upper arm.
After this, new elements are pressed in.
Please note that the new silent blocks of the lower arm are fixed when the car is loaded. If you do this while the suspension is hanging, after a fairly short period of time the new components will break and you will have to do the whole job again.

As you can see, the work is difficult, but relatively so. If you first study our instructions, be sure to look at the instruction manual for your VAZ 2110, and also watch some visual videos, for example, the task will not be as difficult to complete as you thought at first glance.

One way or another, you need to be ready for work. If you don’t have the time, energy or the banal desire to spend often weekends in the garage, do it easier. Entrust the replacement of silent bands to specialists from a service station. But these must be proven professionals, in whose professionalism and honesty you are confident.

That's why it's so useful to have good friends at the service station. They will not deceive and will do everything efficiently, as if for themselves. If there are no such comrades, there is always a certain risk of becoming a victim of deception. They have more than enough schemes. This is one of the good reasons why 10 owners try to do the repairs themselves.

Replacing consumables, eliminating axial play

Having dismantled the suspension elements, you can begin to press out the worn silent blocks and install new ones.

Using a special device prepared in advance, old silent blocks are removed from the crossbar, levers and racks and new ones are pressed into their place.

To facilitate installation, new consumables can be moistened with soapy water.

But the use of petroleum-based lubricants is not recommended, since they have a negative effect on rubber elements.

Regarding the stabilizer struts, before pressing out, they will need to be knocked off the stabilizer, since they are tightly seated on it.

When knocking down, it is better to use a hammer and strike through a wooden spacer.

Also, after removing the struts, the rubber bushings are pulled off the stabilizer and new ones are installed in their place.

Often a phenomenon called axial play occurs at the lower arm.

It is formed when the body bracket to which the lever is attached, for one reason or another, loosened and a gap appeared between it and the metal bushing of the silent block, which is why the silent block itself was able to move along the fastening bolt.

This axial play negatively affects the performance of the suspension, so it should not exist. But if it appears, then there are two ways to eliminate it.

You can try to compress the bracket. But this is very difficult to do, since it is better not to apply impact with a hammer, even through a spacer, and using clamps or a vice is not very convenient.

It is much easier to get rid of axial play using washers that are placed between the bracket and the silent block.

But according to the manual, it is recommended to replace the entire lower control arm with joints

After replacing all consumables, the removed suspension elements are installed in place.

After replacing all the silent blocks on the front suspension, the vehicle must have its wheel alignment angles adjusted.