Knock in the front suspension of Lada Kalina

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Causes of knocking in the front suspension

In total, there are four main reasons why noises and squeaks can annoy the Lada Kalina car owner, and three of them can be eliminated independently and everything can be returned to a safe state.

1. The first reason why knocking occurs in the suspension is the poor quality of the road surface . A suspension that is in good working order can also produce some extraneous noise. If the noise disappears when you drive onto a good road, then everything is fine with your suspension, you can move on to the point below.
2. If knocking and simultaneous vibration occur in the steering wheel, the reason may lie in a faulty steering rack . If you can tighten the steering rack yourself, then it is better to entrust its repair or replacement to professionals.
3. The third reason is the front suspension strut spring that has lost its elasticity . Since the spring tone is significantly reduced, the suspension hits directly against the body. How to change the front struts, and along with it the spring, is described in detail in this article.
4. And the last reason is cracked silent blocks, which are simply necessary to thoroughly dampen knocks and vibrations that occur while driving. Read below for information on how to properly replace these front suspension elements.

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Front suspension device

The front suspension of the Lada Kalina is independent on MacPherson struts. This suspension is the most common in the automotive world for its price and acceptable characteristics for this price. Previously, Lada used this suspension, for example, in Lada Samara, but it was much poorer in equipment than MacPherson, although it was 90% similar to it.

So, the Lada Kalina suspension consists of the following components:

• Stabilization bar;
• Brackets for securing the stabilization rod;
• Cross arm mountings;
• Front suspension arm;
• SPU (anti-roll bar) bases;
• Telescopic front suspension strut;
• Ball-shaped supports;
• Kulaga;
• Longitudinal stretch;

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• Stretch mounts.

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Replacing silent blocks on Kalina

Front suspension silent block close up

The silent blocks on the Lada Kalina car are located exactly the same as in the VAZs of previous years. These elements are located generally on or adjacent to the wishbone . You will have to change them either on the entire element at once, or by selecting the most damaged ones. Of course, if there is damage on one of them, the wishbone with rubber (stock – approx.) stabilizers must be removed and replaced with polyurethane analogues.

Removing the wishbone

1. In order to begin work on replacing old silent blocks with new ones, you need to place the car on a viewing hole, a lift, or jack it up.
2. Next, you need to remove the wheel and spray all the connections on the wishbone with WD-40.
3. After the lubricant has penetrated into all hard-to-reach places, we begin to unscrew the bolts.
4. First of all, we begin to dismantle the ball joint bolt, but before that we remove the cotter pin from the bolt.
5. Then we unscrew the bolt securing the longitudinal tension hinge (where the “daisies” are attached - approx.) and remove it from the seat.

A generously lubricated bolt is a guarantee of success.

When dismantling this unit, there should be no problems.

For the best impact on the bolt, you can use a wrench extension.

Rubber-metal longitudinal tension joint

The rubber-metal longitudinal tension joint, or popularly simply “daisy”, is designed to take the brunt of the impact from uneven road surfaces; despite the fact that this element is very important, it is very easy to dismantle.

Having previously clamped the lever in a vice, we knock out the silent blocks one by one using a chisel or a thin flat screwdriver.

Punching out “daisies” is not an easy task.

This is what the old suspension elements look like

To cause the least damage to silent blocks, it is better to place pieces of wood between the vices.

Stabilizer strut and cushion

1. The stabilizer bar, or simply “eggs,” and the cushion provide the stabilizer bar with stable operation while driving the car.
2. It is very easy to dismantle the “eggs”, just unscrew the mounting bolt from the transverse arm, and simply release the other end from the anti-roll bar by simple rocking.

Sometimes it happens that they just break

After unscrewing the fastening, it is very easy to remove the pillow, but putting on a new one is much more difficult.

Cross Arm Bracket

1. The largest silent block of the lever located at the very base, despite the fact that it has, among others, more impressive dimensions, is not difficult to dismantle.
2. The easiest option to remove it is to set it on fire. When the rubber on it burns out, you just have to take it out and clean the seat. (Of course, you can press it out through a vice, but this will take time and may cause some inconvenience).

This way the old silent block is guaranteed to come out of its seat without any consequences.

Installing a new silent block may also take time.

Silent blocks are assembled on the lever...

...and so they are assembled on the car.

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Front suspension | Lada Kalina 2

Front suspension: design

The front suspension is independent, equipped with hydraulic shock absorbers (telescopic), conical coil springs, transverse lower arms equipped with braces, and a stabilizer for lateral stability.

The main element of the suspension is a shock absorber strut, which is connected with the lower part to the steering knuckle 13, as well as bolts 12 and 11. The upper bolt 11 passes through an oval hole in the bracket in the strut and is equipped with an eccentric washer and belt. Turning the top bolt changes the camber in the front wheel.

A conical coil spring 6, a polyurethane foam buffer 22 for the compression stroke, as well as an upper support 3 from the strut, assembled with bearing 4, are installed on the shock absorber strut. The upper support is secured with three self-locking nuts to the strut from the mudguard in the body. Thanks to its elasticity, such a support is capable of ensuring the shock absorber strut swings during suspension strokes and is designed to dampen high-frequency vibrations. It also has a bearing built into it, thanks to which the stand rotates in tandem with the wheels it controls. Hydraulic shock absorber parts are mounted into the shock absorber strut housing.

Front suspension: 1 – nut for fastening the support of the upper shock absorber strut, 20 bolt, 3 – support of the upper shock absorber strut, 4 – bearing from the support of the upper shock absorber strut, 5 – insulating gasket for the upper spring, 6 – spring of the shock absorber strut, 7 – protective casing , 8 – shock absorber strut assembly, 9, 10 – nuts for fastening the shock absorber strut to the steering knuckle, 11 – upper bolt with eccentric, 12 – lower bolt, 13 – steering knuckle, 14 – shaft from the front wheel drive, 15 – rod from stabilizer, 16 – extension, 17 – wishbone, 18 – ball joint, 19 – hub, 20 – nut for fastening the hub, 21 – brake disc, 22 – buffer for the compression stroke of the shock absorber strut, 23 – upper cup from the spring, 24 – limiter for the compression stroke of the support of the upper shock absorber strut, 25 - limiter for the stroke of the support of the upper shock absorber strut, 26 - nut for fastening the stabilizer strut, H - control dimension.

In the lower part, the steering knuckle is connected by means of a ball bearing 18 to a transverse lever 17 of the suspension. Traction and braking forces are perceived using longitudinal braces 16, which are connected using rubber-metal hinges to the transverse arms, as well as to the front supports in the cross member of the front suspension. In the places where the braces are connected to the lever and the front support, adjustment washers are installed, which can be used to adjust the longitudinal tilt angle in the rotary axis.

The steering knuckle 13 is equipped with a double-row, angular contact, closed type bearing. The hub 19 from the wheel is installed with tension on its inner rings. This bearing is tightened with a nut 20, located on the shank from the external wheel drive hinge housing, and is not intended for adjustment. All rear and front wheel hub nuts have the same mount, with threads on the right.

The anti-roll bar is a rod 15, the elbows of which are connected to the transverse arms 17 of the suspension thanks to struts with rubber-metal and rubber hinges. The middle (i.e., torsion) part of the bar is attached to the body using brackets through rubber pads.

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