Which battery is better to install on the Lada Kalina and how to do it

To start the engine, it must rotate intensively. It is carried out using a starter, which is powered by a battery. It is she who transmits to him the necessary electricity to start the engine. The battery is the source of power supply for all elements of the car, so the battery is the most important component, without which it is impossible to operate the car.

Characteristics of the standard Kalina battery

The manufacturer installs a domestically produced Akom brand battery under the hood of the Lada Kalina. Owners of Kalina, Kalina 2, Grants, Priora and other AvtoVAZ models who bought their cars with this power source complain about its poor quality. There have been cases when batteries were replaced after just a couple of months under warranty.

The nominal capacity of the Akom battery is 55 A/h, and the starting current is 425 Amperes. These are the minimum acceptable values, and using a battery with lower characteristics is not advisable.

The standard battery is the most common, lead type, filled with acid. The temperature range allowing normal use is from +45°C to -40°C.

Characteristics of the standard Kalina battery

Since there are many companies in our country specializing in the production of car batteries, it would be strange if AvtoVAZ employees opted for a battery of a foreign brand. So from the very beginning, Akom brand batteries were installed on the Lada Kalina.

They cannot be called outstanding. Although they are adapted to the harsh Russian conditions, the average service life of these products is short by modern standards, about 3–4 years. This is due both to the imperfection of the technological process and to unsuitable operating conditions - domestic motorists are not always careful and disciplined.

When is it time to change the battery and why?

Owners of Lada Kalina are well aware that replacing the battery is necessary after three to four years of active use. It all depends on various factors, for example, on the quality of the battery, on the energy consumption of the vehicle’s on-board network. But not everyone knows by what signs one can determine that it is time to think about a new battery for the Lada Kalina, because the specified period is determined conditionally. For this reason, everyone should understand when to change the battery to avoid problems associated with the inability to start the engine. Among the main signs indicating the need to replace the battery:

The engine starts with difficulty not only in winter, but also in summer. This means that the power supply cannot hold a charge.
The indicator lamp for the need to charge the battery lights up on the instrument panel. The on-board computer, if available, can also signal this.
After a long trip (more than 15 km), a measurement with a multimeter shows insufficient charge. The device must be fully charged from the generator, if the latter is working.
Once fully charged, the density measurement shows less than 1:25 Gm/cm. You can try to level the indicator with a corrective electrolyte; if this does not help, it is better to replace the battery.
The electrolyte has darkened. This occurs due to the destruction of the lead plates. The use of such a battery is prohibited as it may cause an explosion.
If the battery emits an unpleasant smell of putrefactive decomposition.
You can turn on the radio for an hour with the engine off. If after this the engine starts with difficulty, this means that the battery is draining too quickly and it’s time to change it.
If the battery lasts more than four years, then it's time to buy a new one.

If any of these symptoms occur, you may need to purchase a new power supply for your vehicle soon.

In some cases, you can extend the battery life by using corrective electrolyte and additional charging.

Accumulator charging

A car battery is not a device that generates electricity. It only accumulates charge in the electrolyte and transfers it to the consumer when an external load is connected.

The battery is charged by the generator while the engine is running. But due to physical laws, the battery is designed for a certain number of charge/discharge cycles, which determine the life of the product. But there is one nuance: in some cases, the generator simply does not have time to restore the nominal charge of the battery, and if the car is operated in this mode for a long time, the likelihood of the battery being completely discharged increases. To prevent this from happening, from time to time they carry out the charging procedure from an external source, a charger.

The general rule is known - the initial charge current should be 10% of the battery capacity. The voltage at the charger terminals must exceed the rated voltage of the battery by the same amount. The optimal charging mode is using low currents, although the time in this case increases in direct proportion. In exceptional cases, fast charging with currents of about 30 A is allowed (no more than 20–30 minutes), but it is worth considering that such an extreme procedure is detrimental to the plates.

How to choose a battery for Lada Kalina

The issue of choosing a replacement for an old battery must be approached responsibly. There are several important criteria, each of which is worth considering in detail.

Brand

Western countries use much more advanced technologies in the production of batteries. They even check in a completely different way. In our country, the charge is tested with a load fork, with the help of which the load is applied for 10 seconds, and the charge should not fall below 9 V. The European test involves 30 seconds of load with the same minimum threshold of the “drawdown” voltage. As a result, Russian batteries are inferior in quality to their foreign counterparts. It cannot be said that there are no brands on our market that are not inferior in quality to European ones, but there are not many of them. And you shouldn’t focus only on a popular brand; characteristics and compliance with the required parameters are much more important.

Date of manufacture

Proper storage of batteries is important. If the charging rules were violated, or the devices were in aggressive conditions of unacceptable temperatures, then their characteristics will be distorted even before they are purchased and installed under the hood. The best option is that the device was manufactured no more than four months ago. You should be very careful when buying a battery that has been stored for a year or more. Checking with a load fork is mandatory.

Capacity

Capacity selection is a broad topic and there is a lot of controversy surrounding it. But it all comes down to the fact that you need to choose a battery with a capacity no lower than the factory one. More is possible, but not less. In everything you need to know when to stop and understand that a battery with a large capacity simply will not fit in its rightful place due to its increased size.

Starting current

This parameter is indicated directly on the battery. It is not recommended to buy a battery with a starting current lower than the minimum declared for the Lada Kalina. The same amount or more is allowed. At subzero temperatures, the battery can lose up to 40% of its charge, and insufficient starting current may not cope with the difficulty of starting a frozen engine. In this matter, you need to find a middle ground, since options with a high starting current are quite expensive.

Polarity

The battery can be with direct or reverse polarity. This means that the terminals can be in opposite places. It is worth considering this when choosing a device. The cost of models with reverse polarity is somewhat lower, but installing them on Kalina, where direct polarity is provided, will not be easy.

Load fork test

Mandatory procedure before purchase. Usually, sellers themselves, without unnecessary requests, perform a load fork test in front of the buyer. To do this, voltage is applied to the battery for at least 10 seconds. The battery charge during this time should not drop to less than 9 V, otherwise it is not worth purchasing the device.

Guarantee

If a manufacturer gives a guarantee for its product for up to 5 years of operation, this indicates reliability and high quality. But the price tag for such batteries is unreasonably high. The optimal warranty period at an affordable price is from two to three years. These are honest numbers that correspond to the service life of the battery. If the warranty is only for a year, this is a reason to think about it. A short warranty period is given for a reason; it is not recommended to buy such products.

Battery Lada Granta

Which battery to choose for Lada Granta

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Every time you go to the forum of VAZ car owners and open the “electrics” or “electrical equipment” threads, you come across topics with the headings “which battery to choose?”

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Many motorists ask this question when it comes time to change the battery. In this article, we will try to figure out which battery can be the best alternative to the stock battery, which is installed by the manufacturer on Lada Granta cars.

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Let us immediately note that from the reviews of Lada Grant owners, the native AKOM battery does not have the best performance. So, for example, in severe frosts the car engine refuses to start, which means low cold start current. There are cases that in winter, when the thermometer drops to -30 degrees, the battery case simply bursts as the electrolyte freezes. In general, we can name many more reasons why the AKOM brand batteries that are installed on the Lada Granta are not reliable and their purchase will not be justified.

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What battery should I buy for the Lada Granta?

Before we touch on the technical nuances of rechargeable batteries from well-known brands, I would like to note that buying a cheap battery will entail a lot of hassle, which will ultimately force you to spend money and purchase not only a more expensive one, but at the same time a high-quality battery. So don’t waste your money, but immediately pay attention to well-known brands of batteries that fall under the proverb “price = quality”

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Probably, many car owners know about batteries from well-known brands such as “Varta” or “Bosch”; by purchasing such a battery, you will certainly make the right choice. But, based on my own experience, I want to tell you a secret that in the domestic market there is a battery that is not only not inferior to well-known brands, but to some extent has an advantage over them. We are talking about batteries from the Turkish brand “Mutlu”. These batteries have a service life of at least five years, do not require maintenance, are vibration and heat resistant, have low self-discharge, but most importantly, have excellent cold start current readings, and at the same time the price of such batteries is lower than that of well-known analogues.

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Selecting the capacity and starting current power of the battery for the Lada Granta

Initially, Lada Granta cars are equipped with batteries with a capacity of 55 Ah; installing a battery with other indicators is not recommended, since it will not be fully charged, which will lead to its early failure, and the operation of the generator will occur at maximum loads, which will also affect not the best on its durability. As a result, using a battery with a larger capacity can lead to failure of the diode bridge of the generator.

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We decided on the battery capacity for the Lada Granta; it should be 55 Ah. Now let's look at the starting current, which is necessary to start the engine, even in severe frost. The native AKOM had a starting current of only 425 Amps, and this was not enough to start the engine in cold weather. It follows from this that it is necessary to buy a battery with a higher starting current. The optimal value would be to purchase a battery with a rated starting current of 530 Amp/h.

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And in conclusion, do not skimp on quality parts, otherwise you will pay double the price for repairing your car, it is not for nothing that the proverb says that the miser pays twice.

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Factory battery MUTLU 62 Ah for Lada Granta

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Today the factory battery leaked. It seems like they said it would take a long time to serve, but it doesn’t. I went to the store and bought a MUTLU 62 A/h battery.

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Characteristics Polarity Straight (L+) Manufacturer Mutlu Series Calcium Silver ETN 562 115 054 Technical characteristics Voltage, V 12 Capacity, Ah 62 Cold cranking current, A 540 Additional information Features Maintenance-free battery, Charge status indicator, Extended operating temperature range, Carrying handle Additionally Operating temperature range: from -41° to +61°С Mounting type - B13 Battery body made of frost-resistant high-strength polypropylene Calcium plate manufacturing technology to reduce self-discharge and water loss Vibration resistance Device dimensions Dimensions, mm 190 x 242 x 175 mm

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Battery maintenance on Lada Granta

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In order not to be caught by surprise, at the most inopportune time (for example, in winter), by a malfunction or discharge of the battery, it is necessary to carry out timely maintenance, checking the level and density of the electrolyte.

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Checking the electrolyte level

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To check the level you will need a glass tube , which must be lowered all the way into the battery, hold the top hole with your finger, remove it and look at the level based on the amount of electrolyte. The electrolyte level should be 5-10 mm higher than the battery separators.

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If the battery has an indicator, then the electrolyte level should be at the same level or higher by a couple of millimeters, maximum 5mm.

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Checking the electrolyte level is mandatory, since under natural operating conditions, the level drops due to water evaporation and in this case it is necessary to add distilled water to the battery.

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If traces of electrolyte are visible on the battery during vehicle operation, the following reasons are possible:

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· high level of electrolyte, due to which splashing occurs; to correct it, it is necessary to remove the electrolyte with a rubber bulb to the required level.

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· the appearance of cracks on the case, in this case the battery needs to be repaired.

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· the reason for the appearance of electrolyte on the case may be unregulated charging voltage and sulfation.

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Battery sulfation is the formation of insoluble lead sulfate. This happens due to the use of a battery with a low electrolyte level, during long-term storage, or a discharged or not fully charged battery. If the sulfation is insignificant, then this can be corrected by completely discharging and charging the battery with low currents, and if the battery has severe sulfation, then the battery should be replaced; it cannot be restored.

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Checking electrolyte density

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A necessary step in battery maintenance is checking the density of the electrolyte. The density is checked using a hydrometer; for this, electrolyte from the battery is drawn into the device using a rubber bulb and the density reading is looked at on the scale.

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For a temperate climate, the density corresponds to 1.28 g/cm.

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Electrolyte of the required density can be purchased at any auto store or prepared yourself. To prepare an electrolyte with a density of 1.28 g/cm, you need sulfuric acid (0.36 g) of the highest grade, which is poured in small portions into distilled water (1 liter). You need to know that water boils in acid, so you need to pour the acid into the water, and not vice versa.

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The charge of the battery can be determined by voltage only 8 hours after operating the car at a temperature of 25 °C. The voltage of a fully charged battery is from 14.0 to 14.2 V. The battery is charged with a direct current proportional to the battery capacity, that is, if the battery has a capacity of 55 amperes, then the charging current is 5.5 amperes.

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How to remove the Lada Granta battery

Removing the battery on a Lada Granta car is carried out to replace it with a new one, connect it to a charger or perform preventive maintenance, and also if the presence of the battery will interfere with the progress of other work. Prepare a standard set of tools and perform the following sequence of actions:

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· Loosen the tightening of the coupling bolt nut and disconnect the minus terminal from the battery.

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· Remove the rubber cap from the positive terminal and also use a wrench to loosen the tightening of the coupling bolt nut.

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· Remove the wire from the positive terminal.

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· Next, loosen one of the nuts on the tie rods securing the battery.

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· Remove the battery fastening bar along with one of the ties.

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· Then remove the battery itself.

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· Carry out the necessary repairs or replacements, then install the new one in the reverse order.

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· Before connecting the terminals, clean them from oxides and treat them with aerosol lubricant.

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At this point, the repair work to remove the battery on the VAZ 2190 car has been completed.

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How to start a GRANTA in cold weather

1. We will assume that you have safely opened the doors and sat down on the extremely cold seat. At the very first moment it may seem that nothing in life can be colder than Grant’s chair at -25. Insert the key and turn on the ignition. Ignition only, no need to try to start it. 2. Your daytime running light will automatically turn on. This will give a certain movement of electrolyte molecules inside the battery. They will begin to “come to life”. To make this process go faster, turn on the low beam headlights for 20 seconds. 3. After 20 seconds, be sure to turn off the headlights! We de-energize the entire car, no playing music or lights on the ceiling, we need maximum charge to provide starting current. 4. We put the car at neutral speed (I hope you leave the car at speed at night, and not with the handbrake - otherwise there is a high probability that you will not go anywhere even with the engine running). We leave the clutch intact. 5. Turn the key and listen to how the starter rotates. In the best case, the starter will spin a couple of times and the engine will start; if this does not happen, we continue to turn the starter for about 7 seconds. In the end, if the starter rotates at least somehow, with a working injection system and engine, the latter should start! 6. If the engine does not start, under no circumstances should we try to start it again! Turn off the ignition, smoke, or suck on a lollipop if you don’t smoke. Because all the starting current was spent on rotating the starter for the previous 7 seconds, and we must let it accumulate again. This will take approximately two minutes. 7. Let's try again. This time without the low beams on. If the starter starts to turn better, the engine must start. If the starter does not turn, then there are two options: we look for a cigarette lighter, or we remove the battery and go home to warm it up. 8. Remember, the minus is always removed from the battery first! Put everything on in reverse order. Those. if you throw on wires from another car, the plus should be thrown on first. Then - minus. Shoot in reverse order. 9. If there is no way to light a cigarette in another car, and dragging the battery home is not an option, all that remains is to start the grant from a pusher! Although in winter, in severe frost, this will not be easy to do, but it is possible. To do this, turn on the ignition, depress the clutch and engage second gear. Don't release the clutch. When the towed vehicle accelerates to 20-30 km/h, slowly begin to release the clutch. If the car's spark plugs are in order and the fuel system is working without failure, the combustible mixture will ignite and the engine will start. 10. Remember, even if you managed to start the car in -30 below zero, its control needs special attention. Because in such weather almost all liquids freeze in a car, thereby their functionality may deteriorate. For example, the oil in the struts will work out the pits worse, the handling will change in a negative direction, the tires will be more oaky, which means road grip will deteriorate, the oil in the transmission will also change its viscosity, which will affect the smoothness of gear shifting and the operation of gearbox elements in general. All these nuances must be taken into account when driving in cold weather.

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Duplicate wires from the generator to the Lada Granta battery

I decided to somehow reduce the voltage drop. Namely, by duplicating the wires from the genes to the battery. Wire kg 35. Naturally, I don’t have a special tool for the tips, I made them with improvised means. I clamped it in a vice, and then hit the tips with this thing.

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In the end it turned out something like this. It holds tightly, I checked, one end caught on the nail, and the other pulled with all its weight - and nothing.

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Plus I attached it to the generator, there is one bolt there. I laid it approximately as shown with the green stripe; the wires were approximately 1.8 meters long. But to get close to a generator with 16 cells. engine — a whole story. I can’t reach it from above, I climbed from below. I took off the protection, got a portion of snow on my head, then unscrewed the boot, which I could not remove completely (the screws are marked in red). But I couldn’t remove it because of one of the screws that I couldn’t get to. It is too close to the bumper; not a single screwdriver will fit there (red arrow up). Another self-tapping screw is located behind the wheel.

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The tip that attaches to the battery had to be sharpened a little so that it would not stick. Yes, no heat shrink, just electrical tape. I wrapped the entire positive wire with electrical tape; soon I will buy some corrugated wire and run it through it.

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The minus was already duplicated from the engine. The wire is less than half a meter long, and it’s not difficult to climb into it. I wanted to hook it up to the generator housing, but couldn’t find a suitable place.

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Result: naturally, the voltage drop from music has not gone away, but has decreased considerably. The headlights wink to the music, but now this is not fatal for subwoofers, because the voltage does not drop below 12 (dropped in peaks to 11.8 - 11.5 -, the amp clipped, and the subs began to stink). Now the voltage on the amplifier under load has risen by about 0.5 volts, maybe a little more. Another pleasant thing is that when you turn the steering wheel (I have an electric steering wheel), the headlights no longer dim, and it seems that the steering wheel has become easier to turn. I think the battery will charge better before it completely fails.

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How to replace the battery in a Lada Granta

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https://www.drive2.ru/l/5716910/, https://vgrante.ru/?cat=15&pcat=2, https://remladavaz.ru/kak-snyat-akkumulyatornuyu-batareyu-lada-granta, https://www.drive2.ru/l/1981021/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/8264515/, https://remontauto-vaz.ru/page/kakoj-akkumuljator-vybrat-dlja- lady-granty

13:367 13:377 next article:

Installing a 12V socket splitter in a Lada Granta

I decided to install an autonomous power supply in the Lada Granta, with a shutdown (along with the ignition), for a splitter

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Antimony battery

The founder of all lead batteries. It got its name from the addition of a small percentage of antimony to lead, which made it less “soft.” Due to the rapid process of electrolysis, when when charging from 12.5 V to 12.7 V, it seems that the electrolyte is boiling, the expression “the battery is charged if it boils” arose.

The advantage of such batteries is their lead plates, which are strong enough to withstand deep discharges and not crumble. The disadvantage is the need to constantly monitor the electrolyte level in the banks. The liquid takes up more volume than the plates, which means that such batteries are limited in capacity and inrush current.

Antimony batteries are difficult to maintain due to the fact that they cannot be made sealed. The violent release of gases from electrolysis can simply rupture the housing.

Calcium batteries

Calcium batteries replaced the obsolete antimony batteries. Instead, calcium was added to lead plates. The choice of this element should minimize the evaporation of water during the electrolysis process. In fact, this is a maintenance-free type of battery.

Some manufacturers add a small percentage of silver to the composition, which reduces the internal resistance, allowing for increased capacitance and inrush current. Calcium devices have low self-discharge. There are more plates here, but less liquid; they do not boil, since electrolysis requires 16 V.

But there are also disadvantages - such batteries are very sensitive to deep discharges. It is enough to discharge it several times, and it immediately loses up to 80% of its capacity. It is also necessary to take into account the high cost of relatively antimony ones - the difference in price can be three times different.

Hybrid batteries

As you might guess from the name, manufacturers tried to combine all the best qualities from the two technologies. The battery also consists of plates, but one side is antimony and the other is calcium. The characteristics of this element turned out to be average - a universal among batteries. Water consumption is at an average level, increased capacity and starting current are not too sensitive to discharge and are in the average price segment.

Helium batteries should not be considered because of their unreasonably high price and relatively low performance that does not justify the cost, although such batteries are more powerful.

Removing and installing the battery

You can remove and install the battery only in strict compliance with the order of connecting/disconnecting the terminals, as well as the polarity. The process looks like this:

Open the hood.
Remove the cover from the “+” terminal.
Loosen the bolt connection of the negative terminal and disconnect it.
Loosen the bolt connection of the “positive” terminal and disconnect it.
Remove the battery.

Installing the battery in its rightful place is done in the reverse order. In this case, you need to be careful and take into account that any battery has considerable weight.

Charging the battery

The battery itself does not produce electric current; its function is only to store it. The necessary supply of electricity in the battery is maintained by the generator, constantly recharging it. The battery life depends on the number of charge and discharge cycles. The more there are, the smaller the capacity becomes. Gradually, the battery is able to store less and less current - eventually there may not be enough to start the engine. In this case, you can revive the battery and charge it using various devices.

Before you start charging, there are several important factors to consider. The charging current should correspond to 10% of the rated capacity, that is, if the latter is 55 A/h, then the optimal current should be no more than 5-6 A. The voltage at the terminals should exceed the rated voltage by 10%. If a charged and serviceable battery shows 12.6 V, then the voltage at the charging terminals should be 13.86 V. The battery must be properly charged for a long time and at low current values. You can quickly charge the battery at a current of up to 30 A, but this method is detrimental to the plates.

Preparing to charge

Before charging the battery, you need to make sure it is discharged, and to do this it should be removed from its original place. During operation, a natural discharge is observed, but the device can also discharge due to damage to the case, when the electrolyte leaks through cracks and the chemical process is disrupted. The presence of a crack can be detected by severe oxidation of the terminals. Operation of such a power source is prohibited.

Manufacturers often use a special indicator plug, the color of which can be used to determine whether recharging is needed. All information can be found in the product passport.

The easiest and most effective way to check the charge level is to measure it with a multimeter. The device will show the exact voltage. Based on these readings, a decision is made about the need for charging.

The next step is to check the electrolyte level. This can be done through the filler holes. The electrolyte must completely cover the plates, be transparent and clean, no debris or clouding is allowed. If the level is low, you need to add distillate.

How to choose a new battery for Lada Kalina

When choosing a battery to replace an old one, it is recommended to follow the recommendations of the car manufacturer, but they are not always optimal. Let's look at the most important criteria that should be followed when visiting a car dealership.

Brand

Of course, the popularity of a brand can be considered an important measure of quality for any product. In our case, this is all the more justified: although there are several domestic brands whose products can be called competitive, in general, Russian batteries are still noticeably inferior to foreign ones (except for Chinese batteries).

And yet the brand is far from the main selection criterion. The main thing is that the characteristics match.

Date of manufacture

The shelf life of batteries, unlike food products, is not indicated, but the length of time a battery is stored in a warehouse is an important indicator, especially for conventional lead-acid batteries. It is best to buy products that were manufactured less than 4–5 months ago, and it is better not to look at batteries that are more than a year old. And the basic rule - be sure to check the purchase with a load plug, so as not to become the owner of a half-dead battery.

Capacity

This is one of the main criteria on the basis of which you should decide which battery to choose for your Lada Kalina. In our case, the lower marker is the capacity of the standard battery, or 55 A*hour. The upper limit is 65 A*hour; a standard generator will not support more powerful batteries, and the dimensions may not be suitable.

Starting current

This parameter is just as critical as capacity, since it determines how easy the engine will be to start in cold weather. In severe frosts, the battery can be discharged by 30–40% overnight, so a product with insufficient starting current will not be able to cope with the morning start of the power unit. Here the selection criteria are similar to the previous point: you need to install a battery whose PC rating is no less than that of a standard battery (425 A). The upper limit is limited only by the dimensions of the power source. Well, and the cost, of course.

Polarity

On most foreign cars presented on the domestic market, the polarity of standard batteries is reversed, corresponding to the European format. In Kalina it is straight, so it is important not to confuse this indicator when choosing. You are unlikely to be able to install a battery on your car if the terminals are located in the wrong sequence - most likely, you simply do not have enough cable length. However, some craftsmen manage to remake the seat to get around this obstacle.

Load fork test

When purchasing an expensive battery, such a procedure is not only advisable, but mandatory. As a rule, sellers do not refuse this opportunity, and many themselves check the charge using a load plug. Its essence is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals after applying voltage to the load for 10 seconds. If the difference turns out to be more than 9 volts, it is better not to take such a battery.

Guarantee

This parameter should not be underestimated. Although largely marketing in nature, to a certain extent the length of the warranty is correlated with the life of the battery. For example, most domestic products and many foreign ones come with a standard 24 month warranty. This is neither more nor less. Batteries are available with a 4-year warranty. They are expensive, but you can rest assured that they will last, on average, twice the warranty period. But the 12-month warranty is a reason to think about whether it is worth purchasing such a product.

Battery Type

This is the most controversial criterion. Classic antimony batteries are still popular, although they are noticeably inferior to calcium batteries in most respects. The latter have a significant drawback - fear of deep discharge. Hybrid batteries combine the advantages of calcium and antimony power sources, but they also share some disadvantages. In short, these are the most versatile batteries.

Batteries made using AGM technology, as well as gel varieties, are still expensive and have disadvantages that do not justify their purchase.