Sooner or later, any car owner will be faced with a problem related to the failure of the front wheel bearing on a Grant. It is good if the product is replaced on time, when the first signs are detected. It is worse if the driver ignores signs indicating a faulty element, which can lead to a serious traffic accident.
The main purpose of wheel bearings is to maintain and ensure proper rotation of the wheels. From a structural point of view, the product consists of two metal rings, between which there are rollers or balls, an insulating material that prevents debris from entering and lubricant from leaking out of the product.
Symptoms of a problem
Problems associated with the front hub are identified by the following symptoms:
- extraneous, unnatural noise from the wheel during rotation;
- wheel beating, vibrations of varying degrees of intensity;
- sounds of scraping metal;
- front wheel play appears.
Causes of breakdowns
The service life of the product is quite long and amounts to about one hundred thousand kilometers, subject to gentle operation. However, in real “combat” conditions, the element fails much earlier than its allotted time. Here are 3 important factors that significantly reduce the service life of a bearing:
- Unsatisfactory condition of roads. The fact is that when driving on an uneven surface, wheel bearings take on increased load, sudden impacts, and exposure to high and low temperatures. Over time, the metal components of the product become brittle and begin to break down.
- Aggressive environments. Due to the fact that the element is located in the center of the wheel, it is constantly in contact with moisture, water, dust, and dirt. In winter it is exposed to cold temperatures and in summer to hot temperatures.
- High operating temperatures. The rotation process is accompanied by the natural release of heat; constant heating and cooling occurs (especially in winter conditions), which has a detrimental effect on strength and wear resistance.
List of suppliers
- SNR is the largest French supplier in Europe and rightfully ranks first in product quality;
- SKF is the second-ranked supplier of bearing products, known in the markets for 100 years;
- NSK is also the second largest manufacturer of wheel bearings in the world from Japan;
- FAG is a manufacturer from Germany, absorbed by the INA concern, with high quality products;
- NTN is Japan's largest manufacturer;
- Kouo is the third largest manufacturer in Japan and is part of the Toyota concern;
- Timken is a manufacturer from the USA, the largest in the production of tapered bearings, the quality of which is exceptional.
These companies own many factories around the world, producing products of similar quality that meet the most stringent requirements.
If you need bearings for agricultural machinery, then it is better to pay attention to FKL, a Russian company located in Voronezh. Parts from this company have been supplied to all European countries for 50 years, are known for their high quality, and have no analogues in the world.
Replacing the front wheel bearing on a Grant
Work related to removal and installation will require special tools, namely: - a special hub puller; - chisel; - hammer; — a long lever or a specialized wrench to loosen the hub nut; - set of heads; - center punch; — a knob or key set to “30”; - a flat-head screwdriver; — retaining ring remover (or pliers with round ends); - jack or ditch lift; — wheel stands (2 pieces).
Conventionally, all work can be divided into 18 stages:
- Place the vehicle on a level surface, provide acceptable lighting conditions, and place chocks under the rear wheels.
- We loosen, but do not unscrew the bolts securing the wheel where replacement is planned.
- We loosen the tightening torque for the hub nut (it is most convenient to use a long lever).
- Using a jack, we lift the required side of the car. We dismantle the wheel.
- Using a screwdriver, pry and disconnect the protective plastic cap of the hub.
- Using a hammer and a center punch, straighten the shoulder of the bearing nut.
- Unscrew the hub nut. Please note that the tightening torque is quite high, so it is necessary to use a special wrench or tool with a long lever. Remove the nut and washer. Remove the brake disc.
- Disconnect the wheel drive.
- Unscrew the two bolts of the strut and ball joint.
- Unscrew the steering knuckle fasteners and remove it from the CV joint.
- We install the unit in a vice and, using a head of the required diameter, press in the wheel bearing.
- Remove the special protective ring.
- We place the chisel between the ends of the inner ring and, applying small blows with a hammer to the chisel, tear the ring to the side. Using a special puller we dismantle it.
- Using pliers or round-nose pliers, remove the retaining ring and remove the bearing.
- Using a brush with metal bristles, clean the inside of the steering knuckle from dirt. Then apply lubricant to the cleaned surface.
- Install the new product back into the steering knuckle.
- Further assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Now you know how to change the front wheel bearing on a Grant at home, without resorting to the help of car services.
Replacing the rear wheel bearing of a Lada Granta with your own hands
Note to the driver. Before starting installation work, clean the surface from debris and dirt. Apply a thin layer of oil and be sure to lubricate the outer race of the hinge.
- We install the new hinge and lightly press it into the cavity.
- Evenly tighten the hinge until it touches the outer edge.
- We fix the retaining ring and install the hub in its original place.
Installation in a regular place. Assembly of the structure
- Apply a thin layer of graphite grease, put the assembly on the shaft, and secure it with a nut.
- We complete the tightening with a torque wrench (tightening torque 30 Nm).
- Use a chisel to counter the nut and put on the cap.
This completes the disassembly, assembly, and replacement of the rear wheel bearing.
Note to the driver. The Lada Granta Sport modification has a rear hub with a pre-installed ABS sensor.
It often happens that during the process of dismantling the hub mechanism, a bolt or pin breaks. The reasons for this are different, ranging from the old age of the metal to manufacturing defects.
So, how to remove a broken bolt. We carry out the work in several stages:
- mark the center of the stud;
- drill with a drill to 2.5, after 5.5, 9.5 mm;
- scroll with a bolt with a diameter of 9.5 - 10.0 mm;
- remove remaining metal and shavings.
Is it worth buying the original?
It is often advised to buy original bearings. An original is a part selected by a car manufacturer for sale on markets. These are the parts that are delivered to conveyors. When buying an original bearing, you will be absolutely sure that it will suit you. But there are several questions that need to be addressed here.
The original or a fake?
The original bearings are all the same and if you examine it carefully you will find the engraving. It is located on the edge of the upper or lower part. It should contain several information:
- manufacturer (logo);
- Country of Origin;
- designation digital or alphanumeric details, sizes;
- Additional information is possible;
- The kit must include a hub nut (usually disposable), there may be pins or bolts, seals.
- SKF brand
- Full bearing designation
- Manufacturer country
- Production date code
- Deviation of the average outer diameter ∆Dm [µm] and the position of the maximum eccentricity of the outer ring
- Deviation of the average bore diameter ∆dm [µm] and position of the maximum eccentricity of the inner ring
- Marking of thrust end, stamping
- Serial number (for bearing sets only)
- "V" marking (matched bearing sets only)
If the country of origin is not indicated, it is not an original, but a fake.
Is it worth paying extra for the original?
As a rule, you will find completely similar bearings from different companies on the market. So is it worth paying more for the original if other companies produce the same parts? If you decide to pay attention to any company, then choose well-known, popular manufacturers that supply parts to conveyors. Some people prefer Japanese companies, others prefer European products, for example, they trust only German quality. Our rating of the best manufacturers will help you determine which wheel bearing company is better and who to give preference to. Even if these companies offer products made in China, they will be high-quality products that meet all the requirements. Pay attention not to the country of origin, but rather to the supplier’s brand.
Bearings for cars of the Russian automobile industry
The domestic auto industry, which produces passenger cars, still uses old types of bearings in production - single-row roller bearings. Only AvtoVAZ switched to two-row closed hub type HUB-1. HUB-1 means there are no flanges on the body for mounting to the hub. Therefore, owners of Russian car brands have a question about which wheel bearings are better. The most common vehicles on Russian roads today are VAZ 2110, GAZelle, and UAZ Hunter. Of course, you can purchase original parts, but they are often twice as expensive as similar ones from other factories. Let's look at the example of these particular brands of companies that produce the necessary parts.
Bearings for VAZ 2110
For the modern line of VAZ passenger cars (except Niva 4x4, Chevy Niva), three standard sizes of wheel bearings are produced:
- 256907 - for front-wheel drive VAZ 2108-2112;
- 256707 - on Granta, Kalina;
All these models belong to HUB-1, double-row, ball, closed, angular contact. Lada Granta and Kalina differ only in height.
Traditional suppliers of bearings for cars from Togliatti are 5 factories:
- CJSC "LADA Image" - manufactures and sells original Lada wheel bearings through secondary markets;
- Saratov plant - produces parts under the SPZ brand;
- Volzhsky Plant - uses the Volzhsky Standard brand;
- Vologda plant - sells products under the VBF brand;
The price-quality ratio of these factories is optimal. The cheapest products are those from the Samara plant (less than 200 rubles), other companies on average sell parts costing 230-275 rubles.
Bearings for UAZ
UAZ hubs use bearing 127509 - roller, conical, single-row, angular contact. There are additional parts marked: A - reinforced and AK - with minor design changes. The part can withstand large axial loads, so the car can be operated in difficult road conditions.
Parts of this type are produced by the Samara and Saratov plants, already mentioned above, as well as the Moscow GPZ-2 and Lutsk (LPZ) plants.
The most affordable products are from GPZ-2, the cost is 182 rubles.
Bearings for GAZelle
The front hubs of GAZelles are equipped with two tapered bearings, roller, angular contact, single-row. The outer one is marked 7305АШ, the inner one is marked 7307А. Both are designed to handle heavy loads.
Such bearings are manufactured at the Volzhsky and Saratov plants. The kit often consists of two bearings, fasteners, lubricant, stopper, and seals. The cost of such a kit from VPZ is 350 rubles.
In addition to Russian manufacturers, there are foreign companies that produce similar products, but prices are usually higher.
Before purchasing parts for hub repair, carefully study which suppliers offer the highest quality products, and check that the parts have the appropriate engraving. It’s better not to try to buy cheap, low-quality parts, because your safety depends on it, and such “savings” can lead to a major breakdown and a serious accident.
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