Priora ignition switch connection diagram

Prior ignition switch malfunction

On the instrument panel the fuel level indicator is at zero.
Fill with gasoline The battery is discharged The voltage at the battery terminals without load is less than 12V. When trying to start the car, a crashing sound is heard from under the hood. Charge the battery or replace it with a new one

Oxidation of the battery terminals or wire terminals, their tight fit When you try to start the engine, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals. In this case, a crash may be heard under the hood. Clean the contacts, lubricate them with petroleum jelly and tighten the terminals

Unreliable connection of the electrical circuits of the engine control and power supply systems. Check the connections of the connectors and the reliability of the contacts in the blocks. Fix faulty wire connections

Increased resistance to rotation of the crankshaft (scores on the shafts, bearing shells, parts of the cylinder-piston group, deformation of the shafts, frozen engine oil, jammed generator, jammed coolant pump) The crankshaft rotates slowly. If the engine is started in severe frost, and the engine was working properly the day before, then most likely the engine oil has frozen. If you hear extraneous noise when starting the engine, check the free rotation of the pump and generator pulleys.

Use the recommended engine oil. Repair the engine. Replace the pump and generator.

Malfunction in the ignition system Check the circuits and devices of the ignition system. Replace faulty system elements.

High voltage wires are connected in the wrong order or the wire is disconnected. Inspect. Connect the wires in the correct order

The timing belt is broken or the belt teeth are cut. Open the front timing cover and check. Replace timing belt

Check the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys. Set the correct shaft position

Malfunction of the ECU (brains), its circuits, crankshaft position sensor or coolant temperature. Check the +12V supply to the ECU, the sensor circuit, and that the sensors themselves are not damaged. Replace ECU, sensors.

The idle air control (IAC) or its circuits are faulty. Check the idle air control. When starting the engine, lightly press the gas pedal. If the engine starts and stalls when you release the gas pedal, the sensor is faulty. Replace sensor

The fuse is blown or the main relay of the control system is faulty. Check the fuse and relay. Eliminate the cause of the blown fuse. Replace fuse and relay

Fuse blown, fuel pump relay. Circuit, relay or pump is faulty. When the ignition is turned on, there is no sound of the pump running. Check the fuse. Apply voltage to the pump from the battery. Clean contacts, replace faulty circuits, replace fuse, pump and relay.

The fuel filter is dirty, the water in the fuel line is frozen, the fuel line is damaged

Priora ignition switch pinout

Lada Priora cars are equipped with an ignition lock (switch) version 11180-3704010 with a built-in anti-theft lock, coil connection with the immobilizer and a function to prevent the starter from restarting without turning off the ignition. The electrical diagram of the Lada Priora ignition switch given below allows you to more accurately understand the causes of possible malfunctions of the switch and to monitor its performance, first of all, check the reliability of contact closure in all key positions, the ease of closing and opening the anti-theft device, as well as the presence of a stable connection with the standard immobilizer .

The main voltage to the lock is supplied through contact “30” directly from the car’s power supply sources (battery or generator), and the unloading of the contacts most often involved in operation is carried out through the participation of relay K4, located in the mounting block.

Removing the ignition switch (switch) of VAZ 2170 (2171, 2172)

Elimination of breakdowns of the anti-theft system

Communities Lada Priora Lada Priora Club Blog voltage on mass air flow sensor

Sometimes the Priora does not start due to the immobilizer - it simply does not “see” the key. An immobilizer is an electronic anti-theft device that prevents the engine from starting without the original key. The principle of operation of the mechanism is shown schematically in the photo.

The principle of operation of the immobilizer

In the body of the original ignition key there is a transponder chip 3, which contains a complex electronic code. When the driver inserts the key into the ignition, the immobilizer is activated and the electromagnetic waves 2 of the electromagnetic coil 1 begin to read the encoded code. If the codes in the memory of both the immobilizer electronic unit and the transponder match, the engine starts; if there is an error during reading, the engine will not be able to start.

In the event of a breakdown, an anti-theft device can become a serious problem for the car owner, since the location of the micro-immobilizer - a relay that ensures the functioning of the main vital systems of the car - is almost impossible to find. The mechanism can be disguised as a fuse or controller and installed in the most unexpected places, otherwise the entire anti-theft system becomes meaningless. It is possible to revive a car if the immobilizer fails, but it is quite troublesome. If the transponder is damaged, try using a spare key. If the chip is working, but the system still does not “see” the key, you need to buy another one and reflash the electronic control unit.

The system may not respond to the key if the reading coil is damaged: in this case, the lock assembly with it will have to be replaced. To avoid causing problems with the immobilizer, you should not try to start the engine in severe frost or if the battery is discharged. It is not recommended to place keys near sources of strong electromagnetic waves (for example, a microwave oven). You cannot keep keys from different cars in one bunch, or remove the battery terminal while the ignition is on.

All problems associated with starting the engine can be resolved using the instructions described. A car is a complex mechanical and electronic system that requires careful handling and following certain rules during operation. Otherwise, a malfunction may occur at the most inopportune moment.

Video review of replacing the Priora ignition switch

Now, for greater clarity, it’s worth demonstrating everything on video.

Unforeseen car repairs may be required when a key breaks in a domestic car. There are not many people willing to spend time and effort extracting pieces from the larva. Most motorists agree that, for example, replacing the ignition switch on a Priora is a less painful way out of the situation.

Usually, under standard conditions, a key/lock pair can serve for a long time. In practice, they work for 10 years or more. Failure occurs more often due to operating characteristics, and not due to design flaws.

Repair of the ignition switch Lada Priora

Communities Lada Priora Lada Priora Club Blog Trouble check and blinking

For about a week, my lock began to jam in the second position (starter), the key turned after 2-3 attempts. Just yesterday, the second position disappeared completely, i.e. the key turned only to position I (ignition), then the key seemed to rest against something. I read all the tips on the lock, looked at the repair link and, having bought a new lock just in case, decided to remove and look at my own.

First of all, remove the casing. We see four bolts securing the ignition switch.

Since the bolts have break-away heads, to remove the lock they need to be drilled out or loosened using a small chisel. I used the second option. For convenience, remove the steering column switch.

By lightly tapping in a counterclockwise direction, we tear off the bolts, and then unscrew them with needle-nose pliers.

The markings on the lock are Kalinovskaya.

Next, we disassemble the lock by unscrewing three screws. We see that there is enough lubrication there!

We release the cylinder of the steering wheel locking mechanism by lifting the lock cylinder upward. The most important thing is not to lose the ball that falls out of the end of the larva, and the small springs, but they, however, hold on normally and do not fall out.

On the cylinder there are visible traces of wear on the cylinder rod of the locking mechanism - grease in yellow brass dust.

On the cylinder itself there were burrs on top and a sort of rim had formed, which, in general, is the reason for the jamming and jamming of the 2nd position of the ignition switch. The cylinder in the photo has already been cleaned and smoothed with a file and sandpaper. I forgot to take a photo of the scratches.

The instructions for repairing the lock, offered to me, did not say anything about the brass rod of the cylinder, but I decided to turn its end with the working inside the cylinder towards the spring, so that the working end was intact.

By the way, if you are forced to replace the entire lock, you can leave the old cylinder if it is in good condition, so as not to change the cylinders on the remaining doors or not to carry two keys for the doors and for the new lock on a keychain.

We assemble the lock in the reverse order, check its functionality and install it in place. I again used breakaway bolts, 10 rubles apiece.

Old bolts and heads from new ones.

https://www.drive2.ru/l/6543921/

Ignition switch for Lada Priora - dismantling, prevention, repair

The electrical diagram of the Lada Priora ignition switch given below allows you to more accurately understand the causes of possible malfunctions of the switch and to monitor its performance, first of all, check the reliability of contact closure in all key positions, the ease of closing and opening the anti-theft device, as well as the presence of a stable connection with the standard immobilizer .

Removing the ignition switch (switch) of VAZ 2170 (2171, 2172)

To perform this technological operation, you must have a flat and Phillips screwdriver on hand, as well as a chisel and a hammer.

At the final stage of dismantling the lock, the immobilizer coil is removed from it and the connecting blocks are disconnected, after which it is easy to pull it out of the mounting socket.

Preventative and repair work

Tags Lada Priora, ignition switch, do it yourself

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How to replace the ignition switch on a VAZ 2170-VAZ 2172

1. First, remove the negative terminal from the battery (How to do this, read the article: “Replacing the battery”), we strongly recommend that you do this, otherwise there may be a problem with the wiring (For example, the wires will be shorted, or moisture will get on them, which is very undesirable), after this operation is completed, crawl under the steering column and unscrew while there all the screws that secure the protective cover (There are seven screws in total, all of them are indicated by red arrows in both photographs below) and then remove it, but before that , first lower the lever that fixes the steering column down (Indicated by a blue arrow), otherwise the cover will not be removed.

2. Now look at the ignition switch, namely at the back part, there are two wires coming from it, you follow these wires and disconnect them at the place where they connect to other wires, for more details about these places, look visually at the two photos below:

3. Well, now the most difficult thing is to unscrew the bolts that secure the lock (They are all indicated by red arrows), in order to unscrew them, you need to apply a chisel to them obliquely and hit them with a hammer and chisel, as if trying to unscrew them (That you need to hit counterclockwise), and when the bolts come off, you can take pliers and finish the job with them, by the way, if you can’t get the lock out, then take a drill, drill bits and drill out all the bolts, but just be careful, don’t damage the steering column .

4. When the lock is removed, you can, in principle, change it and install a new one in its place, but we will still show how it is disassembled, in case you need to replace the contact group, in general, let’s get started, first bend the connector lock using a flat screwdriver (see . photo 1) and then, remove the terminals from the connector (see photo 2, they are removed using a thin screwdriver, any terminal has a latch for which it hooks, so you will need to press it with a screwdriver and just pull out the terminal, and so on with each ), then squeeze the plastic latches with your fingers (see photo 3) and pulling the metal body of the lock, separate it and the plastic cover as shown in photo 4.

Note! When you remove the terminals, remember how they were positioned (You can mark them), during reassembly all the terminals must fall into place, otherwise the wiring will not connect correctly and the car simply won’t start, or the wiring will shorten, be careful with this!

5. Finally, bend the two latches that are made of plastic (Be careful not to break them, see photo 1) and after that, remove the contact group from the plastic cover of the ignition switch (see photo 2), inspect the contact group after removal, inspect all contacts of the lock cover, if any contact is oxidized, then carefully clean it with sandpaper, if the contact is severely damaged, then replace the contact group with a new one or replace the lock assembly itself (If the lock is broken, the lock is assembled in reverse order of removal, do not forget about the terminals (see photo 4 for how they are located), they will have to go into the same places, when installing the ignition switch, insert the key into it and turn it from position 0 to any other and you can put the lock on your place, and when everything is assembled and installed, replace the transponders in the ignition keys, otherwise the car will not start (For more details about this, see the video at the end of the article).

Note! If you suddenly need to retrain a key, then retrain it, this is done easily (How to retrain a key, read the article: “Retraining car keys”), but essentially this operation should not be affected if you replace the transponders, in general, after replacing the transponder , start the car, if it doesn’t start (the ignition should light up, but the starter will not respond), then relearn the key!

Additional video: Look in more detail at the process of replacing the ignition switch in cars of the tenth family (In Priors, everything is done exactly the same), so that you have at least a little idea of how to remove the nuts that secure the ignition switch, how to then unscrew them with pliers, and so on .

Note! As for the transponder, watch the second video, which is located in exactly the same way, just below:

https://vaz-russia.ru

How to remove the ignition switch on a Priora

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to remove the terminals from the battery. Experts recommend using a proven algorithm:

At the initial stage, you will need to get rid of the casing that hides the ins and outs of the steering column. The operation is simple and requires only a screwdriver or screwdriver to unscrew threaded hardware.
The second stage involves unscrewing the special bolts. They are manufactured with tear-off caps and are disposable materials. This design approach provides a certain degree of security, minimizing the possibility of unauthorized access to starting the car. A chisel is used to unscrew them. It is important to remember that they have a right-hand thread.
Having torn the hardware out of place, you can finally get rid of them using long-nose pliers (curved or straight).
Remove the clamp. Special bolts held the clamp installed on the steering column. The latter is installed to hold the lock.
The dismantling work is completed by disconnecting the power plugs in order to have full access to working with the lock.

Next, we purchase a new lock with an immobilizer and relearn it if necessary. Usually you can do it the first time. In some situations, transponders in keys are changed so that the standard protection can recognize electronic signals and unlock in a timely manner.

Priora ignition switch contacts

Removal and installation of the ignition switch Lada Priora and its disassembly and reassembly

You will need: hammer, chisel, flat-blade screwdriver.

3. Press the latch...

4. ...and disconnect the block with the ignition switch wires from the wiring harness of the Lada Priora instrument panel.

5. Disconnect the block with the ignition switch wires from the wiring harness of the VAZ 2172 immobilizer control system.

6. Using a chisel and hammer, unscrew or drill out four bolts with break-away heads and remove the ignition switch from the steering column of the Lada Priora (for clarity, shown on the removed steering shaft).

This is what it looks like when removed from the ignition switch.

7. Bend the clamp of the wiring harness of the ignition switch VAZ 2170...

8. ...and remove the terminals with wires from the block.

9. Squeeze the latches...

10. ...and remove the plastic cover from the lock body of the VAZ 2171.

11. Unbend the two plastic latches...

12. ...and remove the contact group from the lock cover.

13. Inspect the contacts. Clean oxidized or burnt contacts with fine-grained sandpaper. If the contacts are severely damaged, replace the contact group or lock assembly.

When replacing the ignition switch, it is necessary to replace the electronic code elements (transponders) in the heads of the ignition keys of the new lock with the corresponding code elements of the keys from the ignition switch removed from

There is no need to carry out a training procedure after such a replacement.

Replacing the ignition switch cylinder or contact group

Complete replacement of the ignition switch

is necessary only in case of its complete failure or major mechanical damage. For VAZ 2110; how to check the ignition on a VAZ 2110 with a VAZ 2109 (injector)?. Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal VAZ piston replacement VAZ 2110 8 VAZ 2110 8 valves. If you just need to restore the integrity of the lock, for example, after an attempt to steal a vehicle or a key turned poorly in the keyhole, it is likely that it will be enough to just replace the ignition lock cylinder. Publication 'how to check the ignition coil of a VAZ 2110 injector': 21 photos with descriptions on vaz-2110.net. Replacing the crankshaft oil seal VAZ 2110 16 valves. The procedure for replacing faulty elements itself is quite simple, and any car enthusiast with “straight hands” can carry it out.

Lada Granta Logbook Flip key

Hi all. The moment the manager at the car dealership handed me the keys to the car, I just grinned like crazy at the design of the key. Consistency is the key to success, I thought and went. Then I realized that AvtoVAZ took a step forward and there were several differences from the keys of Soviet times, but they are negligible.

Flip key housing2. For a very long time I was looking for a sting in the workshops for making keys in Ekb specifically for the VAZ. I realized that this would not be successful, I went to a normal workshop and asked the master to do something. He did not use chemicals from other blades. He suggested the following - take a VAZ key blank and cut off the excess. We measured, calculated the working area of the key, etc. And the blacksmith began to forge iron. They cut approximately along these lines3. I decided not to remove the immobilizer chip from the original key so that I had a spare (original) key. But I needed to see what was inside the key. I didn’t want to pick the key, so I turned to Internet, which said that the chip was in the grant PCF7936AS. In the store they sell it for 800 rubles, then a toad strangled me. You can buy it cheaper on the internet, but I had an almost ready-made set of switch keys, so the waiter in me died and I had to do everything urgently. I went to a garage technician who does alarms and other things. I explained to the guy what I needed, he looked for some kind of bag and gave it to me. There were 2 chips, according to him, some of them were working and some were not. For this whole thing I paid him 200 rubles. and quickly went home to collect. Only then did I notice that I had 2 PCF7936AA chips in my bag. Well, I thought it would work out - no, no trial, I’ll take him back and take my hard-earned 200 rubles.

And so I started putting it all together

Ready tip

The sting was installed in the body. After assembling it, I went into the car to register a new key.

I glued the chip to the case, approximately in the area where there is room for it inside, so that it falls within the range of the receiver. I will write the process of registering the key in a separate post, so that it is not too much of a book. I’ll just write that I didn’t see the first chip at all, but the second chip was registered the first time. I sat in the car and was happy like a child that the toy was almost ready. After registering the chip, I went home to put it in the case

The chip is inside, but it dangles like a pencil in a bucket. Therefore, I decided to put it on hot glue so that this beast would not go anywhere and would be in one place

I put everything on hot glue, but the music didn’t play for long. Only later did I realize what an inattentive cretin I was, that I filled the floor of the building with this condensed milk. How will I close the case now? After all, now the second part of the body rests against this frozen mountain of snot and does not close. Ingenuity, a stationery knife and a lighter came to the rescue

Picked off the glue around the edges

Now everything closed smoothly, pressed, twisted, went in and did not rub anything.

Ready option

What would you like to say in the end? It would probably have been easier to buy a ready-made key and go cut it, it would have cost about 2,000 rubles, but my option seemed cheaper to me (that’s how it turned out) and more correct, since now I know what, where and why. Thanks to everyone who made it to the end. No nail, no rod and good luck to everyone on the roads)))

Repair instructions

The location of the 3Z is known to everyone - this unit is located directly under the steering wheel. To properly replace or repair a device, you must follow the instructions:

First, disconnect the battery and remove the plastic steering column cover, which is secured with bolts. Next, press out the fastening and disconnect the connector with the 33 wiring from the control panel wiring block. When unplugging, be careful not to damage the plug. Having done this, you will also need to disconnect the plug with the 3Z wires from the connector with the wiring of the immobilizer control system. Using a hammer and chisel or a drill, you need to remove the four breakaway screws and remove the assembly from the steering column. You can't just unscrew these bolts. VAZ engineers decided to use this method of installing the protection in order to protect car owners from possible thefts. This method of fastening, as you can guess, makes it very difficult to dismantle the protection, so at this stage you will have to tinker. In any case, the bolts can be dismantled or drilled out, but instead you will have to purchase new ones in advance. After completing these steps, you can bend the connector mount with wiring from the 3Z. The terminals with wires are removed from this connector. Next, you need to compress the latches again and dismantle the plastic cover of the device itself. If you plan to simply change the node, then this can be done at this stage. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with more detailed information on repairs - it is quite possible that simple steps will restore the unit’s functionality and save money. So, if you decide to repair the mechanism, then at this stage you need to press out two more plastic clips and remove the contact group from the cover. Next, it is necessary to carry out a thorough visual diagnosis of the contacts. If you notice that the contacts have oxidized or burnt, you can restore their functionality by cleaning them using fine-grained sandpaper. Get rid of oxidation and plaque, but do not go too hard so that the contacts do not wear off. If the damage to the contacts is too severe, then cleaning will not solve the problem - you will only need to change either the contactor itself or only the contact group. If everything worked out with the contacts, then you can assemble and install the 3Z

During assembly, pay attention to the position of the terminals with the wiring in the connector; under no circumstances should they be mixed up. After completing these steps, install the locking device back into place, while pre-sinking the locking rod of the anti-theft unit. To do this correctly, install the key in the 3Z and turn it to any position, the main thing is that it is not in the “0” position

If the key is replaced, then the transponders must also be changed - these are special electronic code components on the head of the key. If you do not do this, then you will also have to carry out the training procedure, as well as change the lock cylinder on the trunk and doors, and this is a rather labor-intensive process. Otherwise, you will have to use the old key to open the doors and trunk and the new one to start the engine. Agree, this is completely inconvenient, but this is only relevant for those car owners who have changed their license plate.

Replacing the ignition switch Priora repair

If on old domestic cars the ignition switch could be changed without much difficulty, then on Priora and other front-wheel drive cars you can take longer with this repair. Basically, the reasons why replacement is necessary are as follows:

failure of the contact group and unwillingness to repair it
breakage of the key in the lock cylinder and the impossibility of removing it
other breakdowns for which repairs cannot be carried out

To replace the ignition switch, you will need the following tool:

Sharp and thin chisel
Hammer
10 mm wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Long nose pliers

Report on replacing the ignition switch on a Lada Priora

So, to get to the lock mount, we first need to remove the steering column cover. After this, this entire structure becomes available to us. Now, using a sharp chisel, you need to tear off all the bolts securing the lock, since the caps there are without edges.

When all 4 bolts are broken, you can finally unscrew them by hand, or using long-nose pliers, as shown more clearly in the photo.

When they are all unscrewed, you can remove the lock from the steering shaft, since there is nothing else holding it.

And in order to completely release the ignition switch, you need to disconnect the two plugs with wires.

We install the new part in the reverse order, having previously purchased a new one. The price of a lock on a Priora is no more than 1,800 rubles complete with keys and door cylinders. But you can buy the same one at a disassembly for half the price, although it is no worse in quality.

There is one more point that is worth keeping in mind. When installing a new lock, its position on the shaft must be observed. That is, first we lightly tighten the bolts so that the lock rotates tightly on the shaft, and try on the casing. Once everything is aligned, you can finally tighten everything down.

To install, you need to buy new 4 bolts with tear-off caps. They twist until the caps break off.

The photo above shows an example of tens, but the meaning does not change. As a result, the caps come off like this, as shown in the photo.

Video review of replacing the Priora ignition switch

Now, for greater clarity, it’s worth demonstrating everything on video.

Now, I think there will be no questions left!

Ignition switch VAZ 2110 diagram, repair, replacement of ignition switch VAZ-2110 video

The VAZ 2110 ignition switch is essentially an electrical breaker that makes and breaks the contacts of electrical circuits. The main purpose of the ignition switch is to start the engine. In addition, the ignition switch protects the VAZ 2110 from theft, especially effectively if the car has an immobilizer that will not allow you to start the engine without the “original” key with a code. The VAZ 2110 ignition switch, the diagram of which is shown in the image below, is quite traditional for modern cars. Let's look at the schematic drawing.

A special plug with 8 contacts fits the ignition switch, on the right in the lock diagram. Each contact is used for its own purpose. For what purpose, look further.

1 – comes (12 W) for the micro switch of the inserted key
2 – ground arrives (zero) when the driver’s door is opened
3 – goes (12 W) to the starter (50 in the diagram)
4 - goes out (12 W) after connecting the ignition (in diagram 15)
5 – goes out (12 W) with the key inserted into the lock at 5 to the BSK contact
6 – comes (12 W) to illuminate the lock cylinder
7 – comes (12 W) from the battery (30 in the diagram)
8 – not used (reserve for connecting additional consumers)

The position of the key according to the diagram determines the operation of the ignition 2110 as follows. In position “0” the ignition is turned off (contacts 30 are energized). In position “I” the ignition is on, when you turn the key to this position you can turn on the headlights, side lights, turn signals, windshield wipers and washers, the instrument panel, cigarette lighter, electric interior heater fan, rear window heating starts working (contacts 30-15 are energized ). Turning the key to position “II” is the normal position of the key in the ignition switch when the engine is running. But in order for the starter to work and the engine to start, the key must be moved slightly until it comes into contact with pin 50. Then the current goes to the starter, it in turn starts the engine, then the key should be released and in a working ignition switch it will return to position “II”, the starter will turn off and the engine will continue to run. Perhaps the most common breakdown of the ignition switch is when the key does not automatically return to position “II”, the starter continues to work simultaneously with the engine and fails.

How to train a Lada Priora key

Remote control keys serve vehicle owners to quickly control the locking and unlocking of the car lock. Also, in cars of the Lada Priora modification, the keys help control the super-locking of doors, turning on and off the alarm system that responds to touch and vibration. Other useful functions of the remote control include controlling the trunk lid lock and raising and lowering the windows. In addition, it can be used as an electronic code key for the APS-6 immobilizer, which is a standard anti-theft device on the Lada Priora, as well as modifications of Kalina and Grant.

The delivery set includes two unprogrammed keys, as well as a “master key”, which is designed to “train” the entire system.

Structurally, the remote control key is mounted on the blade of the key designed to turn on the ignition of the car. Via wireless communication it provides control of the following nodes:

signals are sent via the radio channel to the electrical package control unit and the door module on the driver's side;
via a transponder channel, communication is carried out with the immobilizer control unit APS-6 or APS-6.1 and the electrical package controller.

Initially, the key is unprogrammed, and for its further operation it is necessary to carry out certain manipulations. First of all, it should be “trained”, using a coded, so-called red immobilizer key, after which it can be used by the car owner.

It must be remembered that two independent remote control keys can be used simultaneously with one security system.