It was decided to install a Priora cylinder head gasket on my car, although I had 083 on hand. I made a short report on the slight difference between these gaskets. 1 gasket consists entirely of metal (2 parts riveted together), 083 with a paronym. + the paronite will not bleed out and will not burn out like in my previous gaskets. 2 thickness of the prior gasket 04mm-06mm thickness 083 1.1-1.3mm Thus, by installing the gasket from the prior we increase the coolant. Very smooth surfaces are required on the cylinder head and on the block, because the gasket is paronite-free! You will have to bore holes for the cylinder head bolts. But I didn’t have to, they screwed in very easily. minus the cost: a regular gasket is 70 times cheaper than a Priora gasket!
Finally the moderators started to fight, please help! It was long overdue!
The cylinder head gasket is responsible for the tightness of the connection between the cylinder block and the cylinder head. This gasket makes it possible to seal the combustion chamber and the cooling jacket channels through which the coolant moves. The gasket can be made of thin metal. The second available option is reinforced paronite, which additionally has a metal edging in those places where the gasket has holes for the combustion chamber.
Burnout or breakdown of the cylinder head gasket is a serious and fairly common malfunction. The obvious answer to the question of whether it is possible to drive with a broken cylinder head gasket is the need for urgent repairs. It should be added that if there is a slight loss of tightness, you can move under your own power in a car, but it is advisable to eliminate such a defect urgently. In the event that the cylinder head gasket is severely punctured and signs of failure are clearly visible, operation of the internal combustion engine is prohibited.
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Causes of failure and how to check the cylinder head gasket
The consequences for the engine can be disastrous even when driving a car with this problem for a short time. If the breakdown of the cylinder head gasket is ignored, even after a short mileage, a major overhaul becomes necessary.
This breakdown can occur in both a gasoline and diesel engine, in a turbocharged or naturally aspirated unit. Gasket failure requires correct and timely diagnosis. An increase in fuel consumption, difficult engine starting and unstable operation, a decrease in internal combustion engine power, a drop in the coolant level in the expansion tank, and low compression in the cylinders can indicate a problem at an early stage.
The most common causes of breakdown or burnout of the cylinder head gasket are:
- engine overheating;
- incorrect installation when replacing the gasket;
- consequences of power tuning of internal combustion engines;
- the tightening force of the cylinder head bolts does not meet the standards;
- driving on low quality gasoline, which is accompanied by detonation;
Engine overheating is the main cause of cylinder head gasket failure. Engine overheating occurs for various reasons, ranging from a malfunction of the cooling system to phenomena such as engine detonation or glow ignition. Both metal (asbestos) gaskets and paronite gaskets in such conditions usually cannot withstand the rising temperature during overheating and burn out. After such a burnout, the strength of the gasket becomes less and it blows out.
The list of consequences of overheating of the power unit also includes curvature of the cylinder head, or rather its plane. In everyday life, the definition “cylinder head led” is found. Most often, the block head suffers from overheating if the material used for its manufacture is aluminum alloy. Note that cast iron heads are more resistant to high temperatures, although in some cases cracks may occur. If the head has moved, then such curvature is eliminated by grinding. As a preventive measure (unnecessary), grinding the cylinder head is not recommended.
Signs of a broken cylinder head gasket
If the cylinder head gasket has burned out or is punctured, then the list of main symptoms of such a malfunction includes:
- gas breakthrough or leaks in the area where the head meets the cylinder block;
- the appearance of an emulsion in the engine lubrication system;
- the engine begins to smoke white smoke;
- oil and/or exhaust gases entering the engine cooling system;
If exhaust gases break through at the place where the cylinder head meets the cylinder block, then this is a clear sign of a broken cylinder head gasket. This phenomenon is also accompanied by a significant increase in noise during engine operation. A noticeable escape of exhaust gases through a broken gasket is not common, but it is quite easy to diagnose. If the outer shell of the gasket ruptures, coolant or engine oil leaks may also appear on the outer surfaces of the engine at the junction of the head and block. Among the signs that require a more thorough examination are:
- The appearance of brownish-white foam on the oil dipstick, as well as a white emulsion on the oil filler cap, indicates that coolant is penetrating the engine lubrication system. Coolant can enter the oil system in two ways: through the cylinder head gasket, and also in the event of a crack in the cylinder block. Liquid from the cooling system dilutes the engine oil, which leads to a significant deterioration in its protective properties.
- If the engine constantly smokes thick white smoke (after warming up and reaching operating temperatures), then there is a high probability of coolant getting into the cylinders of the power unit. This happens due to the fact that the liquid passes into the gap in the gasket between the channel of the engine cooling jacket and the combustion chamber of the power unit. At the same time, the coolant level in the expansion tank decreases, since part of the liquid evaporates during engine operation. Note that at an early stage the engine often runs stably, the coolant drains slowly, but after some time the defect becomes more serious. In some cases, excessive coolant entering the cylinders can lead to water hammer, since the antifreeze or antifreeze in the cooling system contains about 40-50% distilled water.
It is worth adding that in the event of a burnout of the head gasket between the combustion chambers, mixing of exhaust gases and the fuel-air mixture in adjacent cylinders may occur. More often, the malfunction manifests itself in the form of unstable operation of a cold engine, which normalizes after warming up. These malfunctions in the operation of the internal combustion engine can be caused by various problems. As for checking the gasket, for accurate diagnosis it is necessary to measure engine compression. If there is a similar drop in compression in adjacent cylinders, then a defective cylinder head gasket is quite likely.
How can you tell if the cylinder head gasket is broken?
There is no need to carry out complex diagnostics to recognize a burnt gasket. This is indicated by a specific sign (and sometimes there are several of them) that corresponds to this particular breakdown. But first, let’s look at the reasons why cushioning elements deteriorate.
Causes of failure
The very first reason for premature wear of the material is errors during assembly of the unit. In some areas, the walls of the cushioning material are thin, making it easy to tear. The quality of the product is an equally important factor that determines the frequency of its replacement.
The main enemy of head gasket material is dirt. For this reason, during replacement it is very important to ensure that no foreign objects (even grains of sand) get between the block and the head. Also an important factor is the quality of the connecting surfaces. Neither the end of the block nor the heads should have any defects in the form of chips or roughness.
Another reason for rapid gasket burnout is improper fixation of the cylinder head. The fastening bolt must be tightened to a certain degree, and all fasteners must be installed in sequence. In what sequence and with what force the bolts should be tightened, the manufacturer reports in the technical literature for the car or in the instructions for the repair kit in which the gasket is located.
Sometimes overheating of the motor causes the plane of the gasket to become deformed. This will cause the material to burn faster and cause one of the following symptoms to appear.
Signs of a broken cylinder head gasket
One of the most well-known symptoms is loud popping sounds from a specific cylinder (or several) while the engine is running. Here are a few more signs that indicate a problem with the gasket material:
- Engine tripping This can happen (if the fuel and ignition systems are working properly) when a gap has formed between the cylinders. This malfunction is diagnosed by measuring compression. However, low pressure and tripping are also symptoms of a more serious engine “disease”. The reasons for tripling are described here, and pressure measurements were discussed here ;
- Much less common is the appearance of exhaust gases in the cooling system. In this case, a burnout occurred in the area where the cooling line of the jacket passes;
- Motor overheating. This happens if the cylinder seal edges burn out. Because of this, the exhaust gases heat the coolant too much, which leads to poorer heat transfer from the cylinder walls;
- Oil in the cooling system. In the first case, the car owner will notice grease spots in the expansion tank (their sizes depend on the degree of burnout).
In the second, an emulsion will form in the oil. It is easy to notice if you remove the dipstick after running the engine. White foam will be visible on its surface; - Burnout between the cylinders can manifest itself as a difficult cold start of the power unit, but after warming up its stability returns;
- The appearance of oil streaks at the junction of the block and the head;
- Thick and white exhaust and a stable decrease in antifreeze levels without external leaks.
How to change the cylinder head gasket correctly
Let's start with the fact that removing the cylinder head on some engines is a complex and time-consuming procedure that requires draining fluids and dismantling individual units and components. When replacing the cylinder head gasket, you must make sure that the head has the most even plane of contact with the cylinder block.
Dirt, deep scratches and other defects are not allowed on adjacent surfaces. If the block head has been ground, then it is necessary to separately take into account the thickness of the removed layer from the adjacent surface.
It is imperative to follow the recommended sequence and force when tightening the cylinder head bolts. To obtain accurate data, the engine manufacturer and cylinder head gasket manufacturers provide a diagram according to which it is necessary to tighten the fasteners. The recommended tightening force (torque) is also indicated. Let us add that when replacing the cylinder head gasket, it is recommended to also replace the mounting bolts. After unscrewing and then tightening with proper force, the old studs cannot withstand the load, resulting in the bolt breaking.
How to replace a cylinder head gasket
Replacing the cylinder head gasket is a rather complex procedure as it involves disassembling the engine. Before you start working, you must:
- Remove the battery from the car to de-energize the electronics;
- Drain the coolant;
- Remove the timing belt;
- Disconnect all engine elements that are attached to the cylinder head;
- Remove the cylinder head cover.
After completing the steps described above, you will be able to get to the gasket. It must be visually inspected for damage. Regardless of whether a breakdown is detected in the cylinder head gasket or not, it will need to be replaced, since it is highly not recommended to reinstall a previously working part. This is due to the fact that it already has a certain deformation, which will not allow the gasket to provide the required tightness. When replacing the cylinder head gasket, it is recommended to inspect the cylinder head and cylinder block for cracks and deformations.
Metal or paronite cylinder head gasket: which is better?
Many car enthusiasts are wondering which cylinder head gasket is better, metal or paronite. According to experts and auto mechanics, a metal cylinder head gasket can withstand greater loads compared to a reinforced paronite gasket. This is especially true for turbocharged engines and forced internal combustion engines, on which the paronite cylinder head gaskets are quickly blown out after installation.
It is also necessary to add that the walls between the groups of holes in the gaskets are very thin. For this reason, the service life of metal or paronite gaskets is primarily affected by correctness and accuracy during installation, and only then by the material of manufacture. The result of incorrect installation is that the gasket quickly burns out, after replacing the cylinder head gasket, the car does not start or the pistons knock. The latter case is more typical for diesel engines, when the piston can touch the edge of the gasket.
Valve cover gasket on the cylinder head diagram
Valve cover gasket on the cylinder head diagram: 1 – cylinder head; 2 – cylinder head gasket; 3 – valve guide bushing; 4 – bolt; 5, 6 – valve cover gaskets; 7 – bolts securing the cylinder head cover;
8 – cylinder head cover; 9 – oil filler plug We provide a 6 month guarantee on work on replacing the valve cover gasket
Tips and tricks
If diagnostics show that the head gasket is burnt out, then further operation of the car is highly not recommended. Possible consequences for the engine and the costs of eliminating them can be tens of times greater than the cost of a cylinder head gasket and the work to replace it. For different car models, the cost of the gasket can range from 15 to 50 USD. Mounting bolts will cost an average of 10-20 USD.
Separately, it is worth paying attention to the question of whether the cylinder head gasket can be reused. There cannot be a definite answer even if the gasket is in perfect condition. As practice shows, if it is necessary to remove the cylinder head, it is better to carry out a preventive replacement of the gasket and fasteners.
Finally, we add that increased attention must be paid to the quality of the gasket. Taking into account the complexity and amount of work involved in dismantling the cylinder head, it is better to immediately buy a branded original gasket or an analogue from a well-known manufacturer than to remove the head again after 10-15 thousand km. The purchase of a gasket of proper quality will be fully justified even taking into account the higher cost (25-50%) compared to more affordable budget options in a group of similar products.
Cylinder head gasket "VAZ"
The cylinder head (cylinder head) gasket seals the joint between the cylinder block and the head.
It holds working gases and liquids inside the engine, preventing them from leaving the working cavities. Thus, this engine part is very important for its performance, and its damage should be accompanied by immediate replacement. The online store ati-auto.ru sells a wide range of spare parts for cars of domestic and foreign production, among which there is a large selection of different gaskets for passenger cars. Moreover, this catalog is formed by well-known Russian and world brands that do not raise doubts about their reliability and quality parameters.
A pan gasket is a must for every car. It ensures sealing of the joints between the engine sump and the cylinder block. Replacing the VAZ pan gasket using original and analogue parts from leading manufacturers guarantees high sealing performance. As a result, oil leakage from the engine crankcase is guaranteed to be eliminated. The VAZ oil pan gasket can be made from cork, polymers or a tandem of rubber with paronite, cork chips and cardboard. Each of these types has its own obvious advantages.
Signs of a burned out cylinder head gasket
This usually happens in the areas between the cylinders. This is the thinnest part of the gasket. And the degree of damage varies. Also, signs that the gasket requires replacement depend on which of the channels in the block wall is damaged:
If the oil channel is damaged, engine oil will begin to enter the working cylinder. This will cause rapid oiling and failure of the spark plug. Misfires appear. The engine "troits". This sign is, in general, common to all options. Oil consumption increases.
If there is a breakdown in the cooling system, then with minimal engine heating, the coolant in the expansion tank bubbles. The impression is that the engine is “boiling”, although the temperature is normal. There is a copious flow of condensate from the exhaust, with the smell of coolant. Well, damage to two channels on the Priora leads to liquid getting into the oil pan. The oil turns gray and bubbly. This is immediately visible on the oil level dipstick. Compression in the cylinders of the Priora engine also drops.
The Priora cylinder head gasket is made of special paronite and metal. When purchasing a replacement from a store, you should carefully check the part for cracks and breaks. Unfortunately, such defects are not uncommon.
How to replace
This work is a serious type of repair. Therefore, you need to approach it carefully. After all, you will have to remove the cylinder head on the Priora. It takes place in several stages:
- Preparation of "Priora"
- Electrical shutdown.
- Removing the intake receiver.
- Removing the timing belt
- Removing the valve covers.
- Removing the cylinder head directly.
- Checking the condition of the head.
- Replacing the gasket.
- Reassemble in reverse order.
Preparation consists of checking everything necessary for this operation, keys, gaskets for replacement, sealant. Removing the decorative cover from the engine. Drain the coolant. Remove the throttle actuator and air pipe. Then the battery is disconnected and the disconnection of the sensor and actuator connectors begins. This is a sensor for throttle valve, camshaft position, oil pressure, idle air control, ignition coils and injectors.
The receiver is separated after unscrewing 2 10mm nuts in the upper part and 5 13mm nuts and bolts securing it to the cylinder head. Disconnecting and installing the timing belt is sufficiently described in many articles. Disconnect the fuel line using 17mm wrenches. Disconnect the cooling system pipes. Using a 8mm socket wrench, unscrew the cover bolts. There are exactly 15 of them. After removing the cover, unscrew the 10 cylinder head mounting bolts using a hexagon and remove it.
Replace the gasket. Before installing a new one, apply a thin layer of special sealant to it. Reinstall and assemble everything in reverse order. When replacing the gasket, special attention must be paid to the order in which the head bolts are tightened. The durability of the new Priora gasket installed as a replacement depends on proper tightening. You need to tighten starting from the center, and move crosswise to the edges. In different directions. Then the gasket installed to replace the burnt-out gasket will last a long time.
Next, a useful video about replacing the Priora cylinder head gasket:
