Removing the cylinder head on Kalina VAZ 11194

Domestic cars cannot boast of such reliability as foreign cars and therefore, in order to save on their maintenance, the car owner has to do many of the works himself. Replacing the Kalina 8 valve cylinder head gasket can be done with your own hands and you do not need to be a high-class auto mechanic.

The cylinder head gasket on an 8-cl engine cannot be called a weak point in the car’s design. But still, even with careful operation of the vehicle, there may be a need for replacement. You can do it yourself, but if you are hesitant and want to take on this work for the first time, then invite a friend who has experience in similar work (replacing the cylinder head gasket). Be sure to carefully read the material we offer and you will definitely succeed. Let’s say right away that replacing the cylinder head gasket on Kalina units with 8 cl and 16 cl is very similar, but there are some nuances regarding the tightening of the cylinder head bolts. Therefore, be careful.

Frequency and signs of replacement

There is no specific time frame for replacing the cylinder head gasket on the Lada Kalina. Over time, it can become unusable under the influence of various factors. The gasket can break through in different places and, depending on the location of the crack, the signs of damage will be different. The symptoms will be the same for both 8-valve and 16-valve engines.

Symptoms of gasket damage:

When the gasket breaks along the side of the cylinder circumference, gases begin to escape outward. At the same time, the noise level of the VAZ Kalina engine increases sharply, which will be immediately noticeable to the driver.
A hole between the cylinders disrupts the operating mode and the engine begins to operate unevenly and triple.
Destruction of the gasket with a rupture entering the coolant supply channels. At the same time, gases begin to enter the cooling system. One of the external signs of such a problem will be a decrease in the fluid level and the appearance of white steam in the exhaust gases. Gas bubbles may appear in the expansion tank. Another sign is the appearance of an emulsion in the oil, accompanied by an increase in the level of lubricant in the crankcase. Oil can also go into the cooling system, which is easy to detect by its presence on the surface of the liquid in the expansion tank.
Another indirect symptom of a gasket burnout is the appearance of stains or leaks of oil or coolant on the parting line of parts and on the side surface of the engine crankcase.

Replacement process

The replacement process itself on the Kalina 8 cl unit is simple and can be carried out under normal conditions, in the most ordinary garage with good lighting. “Replacing the wheel alignment gasket with your own hands Lada Kalina: replacing the gasket. Replacing the low beam bulb on an Opel Astra: disassembling and assembling instruments If you decide to replace the low beam bulb on an Opel Astra with your own hands, then you need to. When dismantling, place all removed parts in some previously prepared container so as not to lose anything. If the car has high mileage, you may need to purchase new bolts for tightening. But it will be possible to say more definitely after dismantling the head.

Gasket selection

When purchasing a gasket, you need to know the type of engine installed on Kalina. There are two versions of 8-valve engines - VAZ 11183 and VAZ 11186. These engines have different piston groups and differ in many external elements. On the older version 11183, a thickness of 1.2 mm is used (article 21080-1003020-12, manufacturer ZAO Lada-Image), and the new 11186 requires a gasket with a thickness of only 0.43 mm. This nuance must be taken into account when choosing new parts. For a 1.4-liter 16 valve engine, a gasket 11194-1003020-00 manufactured by Federal-Mogul Corporation is required, or you can get a cheaper option from Trialli (GZ1015001).

How to replace it yourself?

Replacing a burnt gasket requires a large amount of work. Self-repair and replacement of the Kalina cylinder head gasket can only be carried out by an experienced car owner who has the skills to disassemble and reassemble engines. For novice drivers and people who are not confident in their capabilities, contacting a specialized service would be an advisable step.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, you need to find a room for the replacement and check the availability of the necessary tools and equipment.

The minimum set of tools and spare parts is as follows:

new cylinder head gasket;
10 bolts for cylinder head with size M12 (article 026707, for motor 11183) and M10 (article 256632, for engine 11186);
gasket for the junction of the catalytic converter and resonator housings;
torque wrench up to 100 Nm;
a set of hex keys and sockets (at least sizes 10, 13, 17 and 19);
pliers;
screwdrivers with different types of blades;
rags for wiping;
container for draining coolant.

It is not recommended to use old cylinder head bolts.

Step by step instructions (8 valves)

After preparing the tools, you can begin replacing. The gasket replacement procedure is quite lengthy and takes about 8-9 hours even for experienced craftsmen.

Below is an approximate sequence of actions when replacing the cylinder head gasket of a Kalina with a 1.6-liter 8-valve engine:

Place the car over the inspection hole.
Remove the fuse box cover located on the center console and remove the fuel pump fuse.
Start the engine and drain fuel from the ramp. Turn off the engine.
Disconnect the battery and remove it from the vehicle.
Replace the fuse and cover.
Unfasten the decorative plastic casing from the motor. To do this, you need to pull it up and pull off the rubber caps from the studs. Inspect these caps; damaged parts should be replaced.
Remove the three bolts securing the upper part of the camshaft drive belt housing.
Separate the cover and manually turn the engine crankshaft to TDC (top dead center) in the first cylinder. The guideline will be the coincidence of the notch on the camshaft gear with the notch on the rear of the housing.
Remove the plug located on the clutch housing and check the location of the mark on the flywheel and housing. The marks must match.
Secure the engine flywheel with a screwdriver through the hole in the crankcase and unscrew the camshaft gear.
Remove the timing belt drive.
Remove the ignition coil attached to the bracket with four screws.
Remove the engine sump protective shield. Drain the coolant from the cylinder block. To do this, you need to open the expansion tank cap and unscrew the screw plug on the side of the crankcase. Pour the liquid into a prepared container.
Disconnect the lines from the thermostat and throttle valve assembly.
Separate the air duct from the throttle body and remove the air filter housing.
Step by step disconnect the electrical wiring connectors for the idle speed (IAC), throttle position (TPS), fluid temperature and oil pressure sensors.
Disconnect the ground wire from the engine.
Disconnect the injector connectors.
Remove the fitting and separate the fuel supply pipe from the ramp.
Remove the two bolts securing the ramp to the intake manifold housing.
Carefully move the ramp along the axis of the injectors and remove them from their seats on the manifold.
Remove the brake booster hose attached to the throttle body fitting.
Unfasten the intake pipe spacer mounted on the nuts.
Remove the lambda probe connectors on the catalytic converter.
Unscrew the receiving pipe going to the muffler from the flange of the gas neutralizer.
Remove the neutralizer support bracket.
Loosen the head bolts according to the diagram and unscrew them completely. When removing bolts, they must be removed along with washers.
Remove the head from the engine.
Remove the old gasket.
It is advisable to send the removed head for surface milling, since it may have microcracks that arose when the engine was running with a broken gasket.
After checking, you can put the head back, having first checked the presence and completeness of installation of the guide bushings.
Thoroughly wipe the mating surfaces of the block and head from oil and coolant. Clean the bolt wells from liquids.
Carefully wash the cylinders with gasoline to remove deposits.
Place a new gasket on the block, centering it along the guide bushings. The channel for the passage of oil through the gasket is located between the third and fourth cylinders - it is important not to miss this moment.
When reinstalling the head, it is necessary to set the position of the shafts corresponding to TDC in the first cylinder (according to the marks).
Tighten the bolts according to the scheme in several passes - initial tightening with a force of 20 Nm, tightening with a torque of 70–85 Nm, the first turn by 90 degrees and the second turn by another 90 degrees. When installing the head, use only new bolts and lubricate them with a thin layer of engine oil, which will facilitate tightening.
Reinstall all removed parts.
During assembly, it is recommended to check and adjust the valve clearances, as well as check the tension of the drive belt and the correct timing of the gas distribution mechanism.
Turn the assembled engine over by hand several times and re-check the timing timing.
Start the engine, make sure there are no leaks or extraneous sounds. Warm it up, visually monitoring its condition.
Remove the coolant pipes from the throttle body assembly. Release the air from them, gradually increasing engine speed. Put the tubes back on and add fluid to the tank to the normal level.

Sequence of loosening bolts

Bolt tightening procedure
Video from the Sdelaj Sam channel! Pljus interesting! Demonstrates basic methods for identifying faults and replacing worn parts.

Step by step instructions (16 valves)

Removing the head for replacement on such motors has its own characteristics that must be taken into account during disassembly and reassembly. The engine design is much more complex than the 8-valve version and requires careful assembly and subsequent adjustment of the valve timing.

How to remove the head from a 1.4-liter 16-valve engine with an injector, model VAZ 11194:

By analogy with an 8-valve engine, it is necessary to drain the fuel from the line, remove the battery, decorative casing, and air filter. And also drain the coolant and disconnect all sensor connectors.
Remove the breather pipe and vacuum booster hose.
Disconnect the hoses from the throttle body and the throttle position sensor.
Remove the ignition coils.
Disconnect the wiring harnesses and fluid supply pipes from the windshield washer reservoir. Remove the tank itself.
Loosen the tension on the accessory drive belt and remove it.
Remove the camshaft drive belt guard and fuel rail. The injectors are removed using a scheme similar to the 8-valve engine.
Move the generator towards the radiator and remove the oil level dipstick guide.
Remove the receiver mount to the block head.
Unscrew the lower timing belt cover.
Unscrew the fastenings of the timing belt tension rollers and the crankshaft pulley and remove them together with the belt.
Remove the camshaft gears.
Unscrew the 15 bolts and remove the camshaft cover.
Unscrew the 20 bolts that secure the camshaft supports.
Remove the shafts.
Remove the hydraulic compensators.
Unscrew the attachment points of the neutralizer to the head.
Disconnect all hoses from the thermostat.
Unscrew the 10 head mounting bolts (according to the diagram).
Remove the head and replace the gasket.
Reassemble, taking into account the recommendations for the 8-valve engine.

Head removal procedure

Bolt tightening order

Price issue

Changing the head gasket yourself will be quite inexpensive, since its cost ranges from 220 (for 8-valve engines) to 550 rubles (for 16-valve engines). In addition to it, you will need a gasket between the exhaust pipe and the catalyst, which costs no more than 100 rubles, and 10 new head bolts, costing 40–50 rubles each. Often the manifold gasket is damaged, which in this case must be replaced. A new part costs about 750 rubles. The total cost of spare parts will not exceed 1,500 rubles. It must be remembered that when disassembling and troubleshooting the engine, other parts may appear that need to be replaced.

Performing such work at a service station depends on the territorial location and ranges from 4 thousand rubles in small cities (Tula, Bryansk) and up to 10 thousand rubles in large cities (Moscow, St. Petersburg).

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Replacement process

The replacement process itself on the Kalina 8 cl unit is simple and can be carried out under normal conditions, in the most ordinary garage with good lighting. When dismantling, place all removed parts in some previously prepared container so as not to lose anything. If the car has high mileage, you may need to purchase new bolts for tightening. But it will be possible to say more definitely after dismantling the head.

Required Tools

torque wrench;

Stages

Place the vehicle on a level surface.
Allow the engine to cool.

At this point, the replacement of the cylinder head gasket on Kalina with an 8-cl unit is completed. The process cannot be called simple, but requires special care and accuracy. If, after reading the material and viewing the photo gallery, you still have questions, watch the video material.

Do-it-yourself cylinder head repair for Kalina 8 cl.

Yarik, sorry, I fixed everything. This is just me, out of sadness and melancholy.

Added after 9 hours 27 minutes 19 seconds:

ZZZ, ADADAD, The valves knocked. I contacted the service station. – crack in the cylinder head. Now I'm waiting for a new one.((((

Mareman, Welding the 50ue head + the rest of the work on replacing the guide valves, etc. In short, this can be discussed, there is nothing irreparable.

Added after 14 minutes 36 seconds:

Don’t give them the old one, you can fix it and keep it in hot reserve. I already have another one, and by the way, my head is also welding and then it will go to figure eight, the cycle of nature